A reader highlighted that LOreal sunscreens have a new UV Defender range. These sunscreens are cheap (₹699 on Nykaa) and before I review the new sunscreens I wanted to give you more background.
Have L’Oreal simply redressed old sunscreens in new clothes?
No.
This is not an exercise in repackaging as the new formulations are different to the old ones.
The old sunscreens (Aqua Essence range including) were green, blue and white containers. These have been replaced with 3 new products:
L’Oreal lets country regulation determine sunscreen formulations
In a nutshell, if you buy the same UV Defender sunscreen in different countries, they will not offer the same level of protection against UV radiation, especially UVA.
For example, look at the same product on Nykaa and that I bought in Dubai (which is Made in Indonesia)
Both formulations have DIFFERENT compositions. Also, note subtle differences on labels: PA++++ is only on one of the sunscreens.
L’Oreal can do this because not all countries have sunscreen regulations and even if they do, they can vary. For example, in France its mandatory that 1/3 of the stated SPF is providing protection against UVA radiation BUT not in the USA.
LOreal sunscreens uses Mexoryl filters
L’Oreal is at the forefront of sunscreen innovation and its recently produced UVImmune400 which is available in some La Roche sunscreens. (That’s on my to do list)
For the UV Defender range, L’Oreal rely on primarily Mexoryl filters (which they developed and hold patents to). I do see them in other sunscreens – which means L’Oreal sells them too.
Mexoryl filters are:
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (TDSA) (also Mexoryl SX or Ecamsule)
Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL)
TDSA (Mexoryl SX) is a broad-spectrum UVA absorber with a maximum absorbance at 344nm. DT (Mexoryl XL) also provides protection in both UVB and UVA region.
Synergies between Mexoryl filters (used in Loreal sunscreens)
Essentially, the study listed below shows that combining DT and TDSA at lower % (5%) here allows for higher pigmentation prevention than that afforded by higher % of each filter separately. Therefore, the levels of protection obtained show a synergetic effect of Mexoryl SX when associated with Mexoryl XL.
Are they better than Avobenzone?
Avobenzone is the filter that I see used most to provide UVA protection. Is it the best? Probably not anymore, but I would argue its still the gold standard in providing UVA protection.
Combining Mexoryl XS and Mexoryl XL offers pretty similar protection to Avobenzone and quite honestly, its difficult to tell which provides the better UVA protection.
Sources and uses
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1600-0781.2008.00365.x
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1600-0781.2004.00111.x?sid=nlm%3Apubmed
L’Oreal global website