This Shiseido offering is No. 8 on Sephora USA’s bestselling sunscreen list and, its formulation is very similar to the Shiseido sunscreen stick (which is the No.5 bestseller).
However, there are noticeable differences:
First, this is an emulsion, which requires a proper preservative system.
Secondly, the % of filters is marginally less in this emulsion vs. sunscreen stick. You’ll note that Avobenzone is present at 2.3% (and not 3%), and it’s stabilised by 50% less Octocrylene.
So, the same SPF value is achieved with fewer filters, likely because the formula includes an SPF booster.
Note that this product offers less UVA protection (even if it’s marginal) because there is only one UVA filter (Avobenzone), and it’s available at a reduced percentage.
Before I dissect it, my final point about the formulation is that it’s a complicated formula because it focuses on the sensory experience of using the lotion. The priority for this formula is ensuring that the experience of using this sunscreen is so great that it encourages repeat purchases (and, therefore, beats the competition).
For example, the product does not just use low-molecular-weight emollients; it uses silicone-based emollients. Some of the emollients may be volatile and, therefore, are functionally there only for consumer experience.
It becomes difficult/if not impossible, to reverse formulate such a product in a lab (which you would do for learning + research purposes).
My main issue
My only gripe about this formula is the preservative system, which includes BHT and Methylparaben. There is just no excuse for this anymore.
Available at this link at Sephora