No 21 on Sephora Bestselling Sunscreen list is a mineral sunscreen by Drunk Elephant. Drunk Elephant is a massive American brand with much global appeal. If you are wondering why it has Zinc Oxide at 20%, then my theory is this: in about 2019/2020 about 11% of the market was mineral sunscreens. From Coppertone to CVS Pharmacy, many sunscreens had ZnO at 11%-20%, especially kid sunscreens. All of these mainly non-nano sunscreens left a whitecast and were difficult to blend.
Drunk Elephant introduce a (i) high % ZnO sunscreen (ii) that is non-nano and (iii) importantly, does not leave a whitecast AND (iv) does this at an affordable price (US$ 34 for 90ml) is an excellent price.
1) What do I think of the sunscreen?
I’ve reviewed this sunscreen on my blog (https://happyskindays.com/the-drunk-elephant-sunscreen-spf-30/) It blends in with no whitecast and is moisturising.
2) UV Filters are:
The identifiable UV filter is ZnO at 20%….Zinc Oxide is a broadspectrum filter, providing protection against both UVA and UVB radiation (over 290nm-400nm), but it is without doubt a UVA filter.
Zinc Oxide has a long track record of safe use when topically applied: it is photostable (does not breakdown as soon as it comes out of the tube) and essentially “sits” on the skin (not absorbed by skin). Even if de minimis penetration of (e.g.) Zinc Oxide occurs, there are no adverse health effects, given the high levels of endogenous Zinc already present in the body.
3) What is the sunscreen strategy?
Dr Jart+ mineral sunscreen just relies on TiO2 and ZnO to provide protection against UV radiation. see https://happyskindays.com/dr-jart-every-sun-day-mineral-face-sunscreen-spf-50
This sunscreen also has anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatory agents, which counter ROS and preventing negative cascade associated with oxidative stress and therefore, photoageing.
4) Formulation breakdown
This is an oil in water emulsion. What is very different is the nature of the emollients used – lots of plant oils are used and not just synthetic solvents. This is possible because Zinc Oxide is present as Zinc Oxide (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane, which makes dispersion easier.
Similarly, the colorant is (likely) yellow Iron Oxide present as CI 77492 (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifier system is very old fashioned.
On the actives, quite an odd ingredient is present – Acetyl Glucosamine, which is essentially a skin whitener by reason of its anti-tyrosinase activity. Not sure what is doing here.
Similarly, I have clubbed together everything that looks like a preservative – but the principal preservative is Phenoxyethanol along with something else.
My view is this sunscreen needs to be updated!
