#29 on the #sephora #sunscreen list is an oil-free sunscreen formula by Shiseido, a Japanese Beauty brand.
The fact that its oil-free is a 101 indication that its tapping into the acne prone market. Do such products work? I believe they do. I find that many of clients with hormonal or teenage acne issues (e.g.) are able to use such sunscreens.
What is a surprise for me…
Is that there are NOT more of these oil-free sunscreens in the best selling list, b/c so many sunscreens are based in silicone elastomer gels, with little or no participation from traditional emollients (e.g.) sunflower oil.
Solvents for dispersing sunscreen filters are generally NOT oil based in the bestselling list – so it would be simple enough for brands to make small tweaks to formulas and lean on the oil-free claim.
1) The UV Filter system
Immediately apparent is absence of Avobenzone and therefore less pressure on the dispersion system
While the oil-version has filters Avobenzone, Homosalate, Octisalate and Octocrylene, this has following filters: Ensulizole 1.0%, Homosalate 15.0%, Octisalate 5.0%, Zinc Oxide 15.5%,
2) What is the formula breakdown
As with everything Shiseido, this product is ridiculously complicated and I don’t think there is any reason for it to be so.
2a) Actives
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate: Anti-oxidant and skin lightener
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: Anti-inflammatory and skin lightener
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract: Anti-oxidant that brightens skin
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract: Anti-oxidant that brightens skin
Sodium Hyaluronate,
Sanguisorba Officinalis Root Extract: Anti-acne properties (?)
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract: Anti-oxidant,
Garcinia Mangostana Bark Extract: Anti-acne properties, anti-inflammatory,
Perilla Ocymoides Leaf Extract: anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-acne active
Spirulina Platensis Extract (and) Trehalose: Anti-oxidant properties
2b) Preservative System, Thickeners etc
Thickener: Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) SD Alcohol 40-B
pH Adjuster: Triethanolamine,
Preservatives: Tocopherol, Bht, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Sodium Metabisulfite,
Chelating agent: Disodium EDTA
2c) Clorants/Pigments
Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Iron Oxide and Pearlizing Agent: Barium Sulfate
2d) Main structure of the product
Emulsifier for oil-free products: Lauryl Peg-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Peg-10 Dimethicone
Emollient: , Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Myristyl Myristate
Solvent: Trisiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Peg/Ppg-14/7 Dimethyl Ether
Oil gelling agent (?): Dextrin Palmitate
Silicone Elastomer Gel: Isodecyl Neopentanoate: