Given the number of different sizes + the dominance of supergoop! I think its worth expanding the Top 25 bestsellers list on Sephora to a bit more.
At No 33 we have Fenty’s offering – just to be clear – this is a moisturiser with SPF added on as an afterthought. You can immediately tell that from a quickly look at the ingredient list/
I don’t even have to look in much depth at the sunscreen to know that I would not buy this for the sun protection it is purported to give – I would buy this for the moisturising properties of the lotion/
But again if I wasn’t like 20, I would not buy this b/c there is nothing about this moisturising lotion that would come to the rescue of my ageing 35+ skin. Period.
1) What is the Ingredient List?
As at 17th January 24, this is the ingredient list
1) What are the UV Filters?
The UV Filters are Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 9%, Octisalate 4.5%.
Both Homosalate and Octisalate provide weak UVB protection, and as you can see have to be present in substantial quantities to give an SPF of 30
If you are regular reader you’ll know, Avobenzone while a gold standard UVA filter, rapidly degrades as soon as it comes out of a tube.
It needs a photostabiliser such as Octocrylene or BEMT. What this product does have is another photostabiliser, Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene or Solastay S1. According to the manufacturer, “SolaStay S1 provides very rapid and efficientexcited state quenching of Avobenzone, protecting it from photo-degradation and improving sunscreen performance.“
I still think you need Octocrylene…
2) What is the formulation breakdown
Because this is a moisturiser, its evidently a water/oil emulsion. You are looking for the usual suspects of emollients (which are also solvents for the sunscreen filters), emulsifiers, preservative system, stabilisers, actives and so on.
- Emollients: Safflower Oleosomes (lighter emollient than Safflower oil and also a more expensive ingredient), Butylene Glycol (some actives may be in Butylene Glycol), C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
- Emulsifiers: 2 emulsifier system (what isn’t?!) which are Sorbitan Oleate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone (and) Isohexadecane
- Ingredients improving skin feel: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80. I believe the tradename is Multicare IAM50KC and according to the manufacturer, “its not only a thickening agent, but also an excellent stabilizer and sensory benefits agent effective over a wide pH range. It is used to develop formulas of any consistency, with a rich and soft skin feel.“
- Other thickeners/stabilisers: Xanthan gum
- Fragrance allergens: Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool
- Preservative system
- Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (chelating agent)
- Sodium Hydroxide (pH adjuster)
- Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, (reduce rancidity in oils and thereby prolonging shelf life)
- Pentylene Glycol (reduces water activity
- Preservatives: Potassium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Gluconolactone
3) What are the actives?
- Niacinamide: sebum regulating and a skin-lightener.
- Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate: is there a moisturing product that is even made with HA anymore?
- Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Seed Extract and Adansonia Digitata Pulp Extract and Barosma Betulina Leaf Extract