At the back end of the Sephora USA sunscreen list is this sunscreen (at no 33).
Not heard of this brand? It’s a brand, with a Danish founder and the brand is his namesake. It is a relatively new brand in the beauty industry – I certainly had not heard of it a decade ago.
1) What are my thoughts?
I am not going to pretend, but this sunscreen has a “fantastic ingredient” list. Its full of ingredients that you’d want in a product: Squalane, Jojoba Esters, Niacinamide (regulates sebum, skin-lightener), Panthenol, Stable Vitamin C derivative.
Apart from that it is constructed in a way that minimises the use of Silicones and instead uses newer emulsifiers that produce lighter-weight sunscreens. I think this is an extremely good way to produce a sunscreen – you can have the best of both worlds (decent skin feel, less filler ingredients just focussing on sensory experience and other “fantastic ingredients.”
Therefore, its very different from both South Korean sunscreens, Japanese sunscreens AND popular supergoop! sunscreens that are based in silicone elastomer gels or are filled with silicone based emulsifiers.
2) What’s the formulation breakdown?
This is an emulsion and I’m slight unsure as to whether its an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, because emulsifiers for both are present.
3) What are the UV filters?
This is a 16.3% Zinc Oxide mineral sunscreen, with a relatively low SPF, which is what one would expect with just Zinc Oxide as the only filter. Zinc Oxide is a broadspectrum, photostable filter that provides protection against UVA and UVB radiation.
4) Breakdown of the emulsion
- Emollients including solvents: Caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Squalane, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Isohexadecane, Octyldodecanol
- Ingredients to improve skin-feel/appearance: Glycol Stearate, Tapioca Starch (reduces greasiness in product)
- Effective dispersant for mineral pigments: Polyhydroxystearic Acid
- Emulsifier: Sorbitan Oleate AND Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (which a water/oil emulsifier), Glyceryl Stearate, Lecithin, Cetyl Alcohol
- Thickener: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80 (trade name likely Multicare IAM50KC), which according to the manufacturer, “is not only a thickening agent, but also an excellent stabilizer and sensory benefits agent effective over a wide pH range. It is used to develop formulas of any consistency, with a rich and soft skin feel.”
- Pearlescent appearance to products: Glycol Stearate
- Actives: Niacinamide, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (stable Vitamin C derivative), Panthenol
- Preservatives:
- Gluconolactone (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Calcium Gluconate
- Lactobacillus Ferment (and) Hydroxyacetophenone (and) 1,2-Hexanediol
- Potassium Sorbate
What’s a fantastic ingredient list?
*Squalane is an emollient that’s easily absorbed into the skin (and reduces TEWL, thereby helping skin to hydrate itself).
Jojoba Esters are an esterified form of the wax, Jojoba Oil, which in English means more easily absorbed and again, great emollient to have
Niacinamide is anti-inflammatory, helps skin regulate sebum, is a skin lightener and reduces TEWL (so hydrating)
Panthenol reduces TEWL in skin at 1% and therefore helps with skin hydration
Stable Vit C derivative helps to counter ROS that arise out of exposure to UV radiation