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Never heard of this brand…
Biotherm is a French brand that started in 1952 but now is one of gazillion brands that fall under the L’Oreal umbrella. The products’ secret sauce is Life Plankton™.
This is a “thermal plankton extract that contains 35 nutrients, proteins, vitamins, amino acids, glucids, lipids and trace elements that help revive the skin’s vital functions and which are essential to its health.”
Click on this What is plankton? for a refresher on school biology.
What am I testing?
An “organic cotton mask infused with…Life Plankton™.” The promise is that even after one application, skin should seem “perfectly soothed, intensely hydrated and glows.”
Results
Would I buy this product again?
I hope you can see that I am actually a shade or two darker after using the mask. I thought it was just me, so I tried the mask out twice. I had similarly result. Obviously this is not the mask for me.
However, if this level of tanning is acceptable, then its a really good hydrating mask that has a firming effect and leaves you with a slight glow. The glow is more visible an hour later. It does live up to the marketing hype on the packaging (minus the reference to miracle fountain…).
The user experience was great: the cellulose mask is soft and contains just the right amount of product – there was no oozing of product as with Forest Essential face masks. Also, unlike the Forest Essential face masks this fits my ginormous face perfectly. The cost is US$ 60 for 6 masks and at US$10 per mask this is a fantastic mask.
However, the product does sting a little bit. I would not use this mask if I had sensitive skin or a known allergy to fragrance or compounds such as Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol and Benzyl Benzoate. If you are allergic to citrus parfum, then there is a good chance you are also allergic to the above.
Unfortunately, the resulting tanning of my skin is really not acceptable for me, which is such a pity as otherwise I loved this product…
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THIS IS A GEEK ALERT. STOP READING IF YOU ARE NOT INTERESTED IN WHAT’S INSIDE THE PRODUCT…..
P.S. Let’s talk ingredients
There are 27 ingredients in this list, of which about half, have nothing to do with the “goodness” / the benefit the product imparts to your skin. I like to think of them as supporting actors – they ensure the film is an excellent experience, but don’t play the most vital roles.
Which ingredients are vital?
I will selectively highlight some ingredients that are vital to this product. This is based on my research and conjecture:
- Emollients: Caprylic/Capric triglyceride, Glycereth-26, Isopropyl Isostearate, 1,2-hexanediol,
- Humectant: Glycerin, Glycereth-26, 1,2-hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate
- Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate: according to a manufacturer, “it is non-tacky, light, glossy on skin and improves application of solid delivery systems. “
- Arginine: according to a manufacturer, “L-Arginine is an amino acid naturally occurring in the skin. It is an excellent moisturizing agent, it supports the barrier function of the skin, and is compatible with most cosmetic ingredients.”
- Biosaccharide gum-1: according to the manufacturer, “this product is used as the active ingredient and excipient at the same time, presenting a double activity of both physical and biological properties. It helps with the soothing, moisturizing, anti-aging, restructuring, and touch functions of gels, emulsions, cream-gels, lotions, and foaming formulations for face, body, hair, sun, and make-up applications used for all ages and all types of skin and hair. ”
- Vitreoscilla ferment – I don’t know what this
- Anti-oxidant: Tocopherol (or Vitamin E)
- Protective (create longer lasting protective film on skin surface),
- Fatting (create a slightly greasy longer lasting film on skin surface) or
- Drying (create a thin non-greasy film on skin surface) and astringent (create minimal greasy residue reducing the oily feel of other emollients).
Humectants are substances that attract water from within the skin and on the skin. Both glycerin and sodium hyaluronate are humectants.
How about the other ingredients?
The bulk of these contribute to ensuring some of the following for the product. Note that some ingredients have multiple functions:
- Emulsifiers (or emulsion stabilisers that ensure the solution does not split into its components of oil and water): Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate crosspolymer, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil
- Solvent: Water, Butylene Glycol
- Preservatives and boosters:
- Ehtylhexylglycerin (Phenoxyethanol booster),
- Phenoxyethanol,
- Benzyl Alcohol,
- Chlorphenesin,
- Hydroxyacetophenone (Preservative booster and anti-oxidant)
- Longevity against metal ions is maintained: Disodium EDTA,
- Smells not awful (fragrance): Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate and parfum
Sources and uses
Biotive® L-Arginine data, Fucogel®