(All references supporting the acid series are available at this LINK)
Introduction
Named after the German mandel (almond) and derived from the hydrolysis of an extract of bitter almonds.
This is an AHA but has a phenyl group is attached to alpha carbon atom.
Chemically mandelic acid has a structure that is similar to other well-known antibiotics.
Structure
Benefits
Mandelic Acid has the benefits of an AHA – acts by dissolving the intercellular cement substance, stimulating collagen synthesis and promoting cellular regeneration. Also, it reduces fine lines and wrinkles.
It is a large molecule that penetrates the skin slowly and therefore is better tolerated by skin and has fewer side effects than Glycolic Acid.
It also has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory activity and therefore is used in the treatment of mild to moderate acne.
Salicylic vs Mandelic?
Both Salicylic Acid and Mandelic Acid can be used in the treatment of acne, but how about for Indians? Does Mandelic Acid work for Indian skin?
An Indian study with 50 test subjects 45% using Mandelic Acid peel v 30% Salicylic Acid peel in mild to moderate acne over 12 wk period shows that:
(i) Almost equay efficacy in improving mild to moderate acne
(ii) SA better for non-inflammatory acne (comedones)
(iii) MA better for inflammatory acne (papules, postules)
(iv) Fewer side effects with MA peel showing better tolerability (by Dayal S, Kalra KD, Sahu P., Comparative study of efficacy and safety of 45% mandelic acid versus 30% salicylic acid peels in mild to moderate acne,. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020, 19, 393-399)
Based on this one “no conflict of interest” study I found, Salicylic Acid definitely reduces acne more than Mandelic Acid. However, the use of Mandelic Acid has fewer side-effects…In a small study, 25 ppl per group, treatment of acne, 30% Mandelic Acid applied every 15 days for 6 sessions was compared to 20% Salicylic Acid applied over the same period. Salicylic Acid peel definitively reduced acne more than Mandelic Acid. Both Acids caused side effects. With salicylic acid, the most common side effects were erythema (subside after a few hours), burning, irritation, skin peel and PIH. With mandelic acid, the most common side effect was erythema, burning (both subsided within a few hours). Salicylic Acid peel definitively reduced acne more than Mandelic Acid). (Source: http://www.cdriadvlkn.org/temp/ClinDermatolRev1115-1322053_034020.pdf (2017 review: )
A second, cosmetic manufacturer study in Poland concluded that 5% Mandelic acid may be recommended for the treatment of patients with sensitive skin and moderately severe acne; A cream containing 10% Mandelic acid may be recommended to patients with an oily or mixed skin type and more severe acne.
Side-effects
Watch this space…
The following should think of using this acid….
Mandelic Acid is definitely better tolerated than Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid. So, if you are a first time user of AHAs, then Mandelic Acid is a good place to start.
Similarly, if you have very mild to moderate acne, Mandelic Acid may be more tolerable than Salicylic Acid.
If you have dark skin (Fitzpatrick skin type IV, V or VI) then you can give Mandelic Acid a try, as it does not appear to cause Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation in the studies I have seen.
I would like to stress that in the studies I have read, Mandelic Acid does appear to take twice as long as Salicylic Acid to produce similar outcomes for outcomes.
The following should not be using this acid
Despite Mandeli Acid’s many benefits its still and AHA and has the same side-effects, albeit in reduced quantities compared to Glycolic Acid. Therefore, if you have generally have:
– sensitive skin (including photo-sensitivity),
– difficulties finding new products, because your skin reacts poorly
– rosacea and so on, then you should give Lactic Acid a wide berth.
Products for first time users
The Ordinary 10% Mandelic Acid is a cheap and affordable option. There are not 50 million Mandelic Acid options in the marketplace and therefore, I would start with this option.