Fair & Lovely is a Rs 2,000 crore brand. It sells millions of units across India.
The product has an almost identical ingredient list to Citral pearl face cream and Pond’s white beauty BB+ cream. All three of these brands are manufactured by Hindustan Unilever.
I will be applying this test:
Q1) Are harmful chemicals present?
Yes. This fairness cream contains parabens, which I avoid. Parabens are cheap and effective preservatives that are endocrine system disruptors (estrogen mimickers). (See also Chemicals to Avoid – Parabens).
If you are completely fine with using a fairness cream with these chemicals, then I respect that. Please continue reading.
Q2) Are skin lightening ingredients present?
Listed ingredients that can contribute to skin lightening are: Niacinamide (3rd ingredient), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C).
Without doubt, Niacinamide is the ingredient responsible for skin lightening.
Niacinamide is a great skincare ingredient; its non-irritating and importantly, does not interfere directly with the synthesis of melanin. Melanin is the pigment that is primarily responsible for our skin colour (see also What gives our skin its colour?)
Instead, Niacinamide reduces the amount of melanin being transferred to the epidermis (the topmost layer of our skin). By default, this means lighter skin.
Both the Vitamin E and Vitamin C are not present in great quantities – they are listed half way down the label.
I will be generous and assume that these vitamins are acting as anti-oxidants, reducing free radicals, and the impact of exposure to UV radiation. Present together, both Vitamins C and E enhance each other’s effect.
(Q3) Strategy for skin lightening?
There’s a 3 pronged approach to achieving skin lightening.
The first prong is the sunscreen filters. One of the immediate body responses to over-exposure to UV radiation is that our body produces more melanin. More melanin results in tanning and darkening of skin complexion.
The purpose of the sunscreen ingredients is to prevent this cascade of events caused by UVR exposure. This day cream aims to do this by having sunscreen filters, Octinoxate, Titanium Dioxide, and Avobenzone.
The second prong is the presence of anti-oxidants, which by absorbing free radicals generated by UV exposure, reduce the need for skin to produce melanin.
The third prong, which is the most effective, is the effect of Niacinamide as a skin lightener.
Would I buy this product again?
I am not OK with parabens, so I pass on this product.
If you are OK with parabens, then definitely this will give you skin lightening.
After about 4 weeks, you may not see any difference in your complexion, despite continuous use of this product. This is consistent with studies that show the impact of Niacinamide in topical treatments plateaus after 4 weeks. This isn’t unique to Niacinamide but also applies to other skin lighteners (e.g.) retinoids.
For further information, please see Niacinamide as a skin lightener.
If you do plan use to use this product, please absolutely use a separate sunscreen product with at least an SPF 30 and that protects your skin against both UVA and UVB.
See also Top 5 sunscreen recommendations