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Happy Skin Days test
For me to suggest a product, the sunscreen has to pass my very basic sunscreen test:
1) Harmful chemicals present?
This is Oxybenzone, a UVA and UVB filter that is hormonal disruptor and a known skin allergen. See also: Chemicals to Avoid: Oxybenzone
3) UVB and UVB filters present
Both UVA and UVB have both been implicated in skin cancer and photo-aging and we want filters to protect against both types of damage. Filters (UVA, UVB and broadspectrum (combine function of UVB and UVA) protect against damage caused by the specific type of radiation in question.
What filters are present?
The main UVB filter is Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate (or Octinoxate) which justifies the SPF 30 rating. Its also supported by Titanium Dioxide which is effective in the UVB region. Oxybenzone is a broadspectrum filter.
The UVA filter system is a problem
Lotus Herbals have chosen Avobenzone as its primary UVA filter. This is a gold standard UVA filter that is notoriously photo-unstable. Available evidence shows Avobenzone degrades quickly upon exposure to sunlight, reducing its efficacy by as much as 50 and 90 per cent after 60 minutes of exposure.
This product uses Benzophenone-3 to stabilise this notoriously unstable UVA filter. Usually you’ll find multiple stabilisers (especially Octocrylene) in decent products, but let’s forgive Lotus Herbals for the moment.
Such generosity I hear you say. Well, the product by adding Octinoxate and Titanium Dioxide make Avobenzone photounstable. Also, Octinoxate becomes unstable in this combination.
The study listed below shows that a mixture of Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and Avobenzone shows less absorbance after UV exposure, indicating a photo-unstable formulation. Click on LINK for more information.
PA++ labelling
This is what the PA labelling means and I think its ambitious for Lotus Herbals to claim that this product provides “significant preventative effect against UVA radiation.” It doesn’t.
Objectionable labelling
India does not have specific sunscreen regulation – so manufacturer’s have a free hand over the labelling. Lotus Herbals have taken complete advantage and have “Sweat & Water Proof” on their label. This is a completely meaningless phrase….and pay no attention to it.
Notes: data from product itself
Sources and uses
US20170326062A1 (US Patent application pending), US9956163B2 (Having previously been published, pre-grant publication), https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use ; Ceresole, R., Y.K. Han, M.A. Rosasco, et al., “Drug-Excipient Compatibility Studies in Binary Mixtures of Avobenzone,” Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 64(5), pp. 317-328, 2013. ; Nash, J.F., and P.R. Tanner, “Relevance of UV Filter/Sunscreen Product Photostability to Human Safety,” Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine, vol. 30(2-3), pp. 88-95, 2014 ; Wendy E Roberts, Lily I Jiang, and James H Herndon, Jr, “Facial primer provides immediate and long-term improvements in mild-to-moderate facial hyperpigmentation and fine lines associated with photoaging” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015; 8: 471–477.
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