Happy Skin Days Sunscreen Test
In deciding whether or not to use a product I apply the following very basic sunscreen test:
1) Harmful chemicals present
The first set of harmful chemical present are parabens, which are cheap and effective preservatives. They are also estrogen mimickers and if you are thinking PCOS, then you are not the only one. The second harmful chemical is Oxybenzone, a UVA and UVB filter. This is also a hormonal disruptor and a known skin allergen. (For more information, see Chemicals to Avoid – Parabens., Chemicals To Avoid – Benzophenone-3)
Harmful chemicals – Methylisothiazolinone
In addition to the normal cohort of Oxybenzone and Parabens, this product contains a preservative – Methylisothiazolinone (MI) that no-one should be using in leave-on products. MI is banned in the European Union (EU) in products, such as sunscreen as its a contact allergen. The EU reached this decision after finding sufficient data in a bunch of European countries that showed not only was MI a contact allergen but also the number of incidences of contact allergy to MI were increasing. In the US, the status of MI is under review but in 2013, the American Contact Dermatitis Society named in as “Allergen of the Year.”
See this Should you avoid products with Methylisothiazolinone? for more information.
3) UVA and UVB filters present
Both UVA and UVB have both been implicated in skin cancer and photo-aging and we want filters to protect against both types of damage. We are looking for filters that protect against both types of UV radiation.
Filters present are:
- UVB filter: Octinoxate (or Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate) (8th ingredient)
- UVA and UVB filters: Oxybenzone (7th ingredient) and Titanium Dioxide (9th ingredient)
- UVA filter: Avobenzone (Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane) (10th ingredient)
What do I think of the filters present in the product?
The primary UVA filter is Butyl Methoxdibenzoylmethane (or Avobenzone), which is a gold standard UVA filter that is notoriously photo-unstable.
Available evidence shows Avobenzone degrades quickly upon exposure to sunlight, reducing its efficacy by as much as 50 and 90 per cent after 60 minutes of exposure.
This product uses Benzophenone-3 (or Oyxbenzone) to stabilise this notoriously unstable UVA filter. Usually you’ll find multiple stabilisers (especially Octocrylene) in decent products, but let’s forgive Lotus Herbals for the moment.
Such generosity I hear you say. Well, the product by adding Octinoxate and Titanium Dioxide make Avobenzone photounstable. Also, Octinoxate itself as a UVB filter, becomes unstable in this combination.
The study listed below shows that a mixture of Octinoxate (Octyl methoxycinnamate) and Avobenzone shows less absorbance after UV exposure, indicating a photo-unstable formulation.
Therefore, having Avobenzone adds nothing to this product. Click on LINK for more information.
4) Objectionable labelling: sunblock
India does not have specific sunscreen regulation – so manufacturer’s have a free hand over the labelling. Lotus Herbals have taken complete advantage and have ” SUNBLOCK” on their label. A sunblock implies that the product completely blocks UVR (ultra violet radiation) or provides “complete” or “total” protection. Such a (miraculous) sunscreen does not exist and in the EU – where there is specific sunscreen regulation – manufacturers cannot make such claims.
Please pay no attention to these meaningless words.
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Source: Ingredient list
Sources and uses
US20170326062A1 (US Patent application pending), US9956163B2 (Having previously been published, pre-grant publication), https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use ; Ceresole, R., Y.K. Han, M.A. Rosasco, et al., “Drug-Excipient Compatibility Studies in Binary Mixtures of Avobenzone,” Journal of
Cosmetic Science, vol. 64(5), pp. 317-328, 2013. ; Nash, J.F., and P.R. Tanner, “Relevance of UV Filter/Sunscreen Product Photostability to Human Safety,” Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine, vol. 30(2-3), pp. 88-95, 2014 ; Wendy E Roberts, Lily I Jiang, and James H Herndon, Jr, “Facial primer provides immediate and long-term improvements in mild-to-moderate facial hyperpigmentation and fine lines associated with photoaging” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015; 8: 471–477.
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