Happy Skin Days Sunscreen test
In deciding whether or not to use a product I apply the following very basic sunscreen test
1) Harmful chemicals present
The product has both Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3) and BHT, which are harmful chemicals that cause me to reject the product. BHT is a cheap preservative and, “limited evidence suggests that high doses of BHT may mimic estrogen, the primary female sex hormone and prevent the expression of male sex hormones, resulting in adverse reproductive effects.” (Source: David Suzuki) The second harmful chemical is Oxybenzone, a UVA and UVB filter. This is also a hormonal disruptor and a known skin allergen (see also Chemicals To Avoid – Benzophenone-3). However, it is your body and health and if you are perfectly fine using harmful chemicals in the name of sunscreen, then please continue reading.
3) UVA and UVB filters present
Both UVA and UVB have both been implicated in skin cancer and photo-aging and we want filters to protect against both types of damage.
UVA and UVB filters protect against the damage caused by UVA and UVB respectively. UVB/UVA filters combine the function of UVA and UVB filters.
Filters present in this product are:
UVB Filters: Homosalate, Octocrylene, Octyl Salicylate, Octyl Methoxycinnamate
UVA Filter: Avobenzone (or Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane)
UVA and UVB filter: Oxybezone
Given that the first five ingredients contain the UVB filters listed above, I would say the product is at least an SPF 50. In the EU this would be the maximum permitted SPF number.
In terms of the UVA filter, the product relies solely on Avobenzone, which is a gold standard albeit photo-unstable filter. Available evidence shows Avobenzone degrades quickly upon exposure to sunlight, reducing its efficacy by as much as 50 and 90 per cent after 60 minutes of exposure. This product uses BOTH Octocrylene and Benzophenone-3 to stabilise Avobenzone.
I would have said this works BUT it also includes Octinoxate (Octyl Methoxycinnamate), which makes the Avobenzone unstable (as well as making the Octinoxate less effective). The study listed below shows that a mixture of Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and Avobenzone shows less absorbance after UV exposure, indicating a photo-unstable formulation. Click on LINK for more information.
It is my view, that this product would at best provide PA++ protection. I wish it were able to stabilise the UVA filter but alas Lotus Herbals haven’t.
Objectionable Labelling
India does not have specific sunscreen regulation – so manufacturer’s have a free hand over the labelling. Lotus Herbals have taken complete advantage and have “Sweat & Water Proof” on their label. This is a completely meaningless phrase….and pay no attention to it.
Other sources: ingredients
Sources and uses
US20170326062A1 (US Patent application pending), US9956163B2 (Having previously been published, pre-grant publication), https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use ; Ceresole, R., Y.K. Han, M.A. Rosasco, et al., “Drug-Excipient Compatibility Studies in Binary Mixtures of Avobenzone,” Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 64(5), pp. 317-328, 2013. ; Nash, J.F., and P.R. Tanner, “Relevance of UV Filter/Sunscreen Product Photostability to Human Safety,” Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine, vol. 30(2-3), pp. 88-95, 2014 ; Wendy E Roberts, Lily I Jiang, and James H Herndon, Jr, “Facial primer provides immediate and long-term improvements in mild-to-moderate facial hyperpigmentation and fine lines associated with photoaging” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015; 8: 471–477.
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