JOLEN face cleansing gel

In deciding whether or not to use a facewash, I apply this quite rudimentary and basic test of my own design:

1) What are the cleansing agents (surfactants) present?

Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate has great detergency action: its great at removing dirt and grim. But its primarily used because it produces foam and good lather. (Asians like their facewashes to foam).

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a mild surfactant and its present because it reduces the irritation potential of the other sulphate based detergents.

The combination of these surfactants should produce a mild to medium strong cleansing agent. If you have sensitive skin or prefer mild cleansers, this is not for you.

2) Does the product have a good preservative system?

This product contains Methylisothiazolinone (MI) and its companion Methylcholorisothiazolinone. MI is a preservative and a biocide. It’s used in industrial products (paints, adhesives, varnishes), household products and in the USA and India, its also used in cosmetics, shampoos, and sunscreens.

MI is banned in the European Union (EU) in leave-on products, such as sunscreen as its a contact allergen. The EU reached this decision after finding sufficient data in a bunch of European countries that showed not only was MI a contact allergen but also the number of incidences of contact allergy to MI were increasing. In the US, the status of MI is under review but in 2013, the American Contact Dermatitis Society named in as “Allergen of the Year.”

See this Should you avoid products with Methylisothiazolinone? for more information.

However, it is permitted in rinse-off products.

My personal view is that this may cause irritation over time because of how I use this facewash. Am I always going to leave my facewash on for a few seconds or will there be many times when I leave it on for 30 seconds+? What is the prolonged impact of this on my skin? I don’t want to be that guinea pig that finds out if my skin becomes sensitised over time. I just don’t.

Therefore, I do not use MI in leave-on or rinse-off products.

I respect that you may wish to ignore this and please continue reading.

3) Is there any glycerine?

Yes, the product has glycerine. The short story about glycerine is that helps with skin moisturisation. You should really avoid cleansers that don’t even have something as basic as glycerine in them. See also The Critical Importance of Glycerin in the Skin

4) Does the product irritate or dry the skin?

The facewash has a pleasant and refreshing fresh smell. I like it and honestly, I barely noticed the neem, indicating a lot of fragrance or less neem! The formula is a bit drying, but much better than Neutrogena, fabindia, Richfeel and Unhappily married facewashes. Its not as good as Clean & Clear, Lakme, Kaya and innisfree.

However, my skin did sting a little bit after using the facewash…so this is not for sensitive skin users at all.

What is my view?

I would not buy this product because of the MI present. I have seen how cousins living in India wash their face. After hours spent outside in polluting cities or the metro, they are literally scrubbing their face off.

If you are a face “scrubber” or really go to town in using your face wash, then you should avoid products containing MI, even if it is a rinse-off product such as a facewash.

Retail price is INR 285

How glycerin hydrates the skin?

Baumman writes, “App et al compared 2 high glycerin moisturizers to 16 other popular moisturizers in 394 patients with severely dry skin.  The high glycerin products were superior to all other products tested over this five year period because they rapidly restored dry skin to normal hydration levels.  They also helped prevent the return to dryness for a long period than the other formulations, even those containing petroluatum. Glycerin causes an expansion of the stratum corneum because of increased thickness of the corneocytes and expanded spaces between layers and corneocytes.  These findings suggest that glycerin appears to create a reservoir of moisturing holding ability that renders the skin more resistant to drying.”

See also Methylisothiazolinone 101

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