AVEIL SPF 50 Gel

The 10 second review

This product is a “no, no,” as it uses Oxybenzone, a hormonal disruptor and a known skin allergen. Also it does not provide adequate UVA* protection, as the primary UVA filter (Avobenzone) has not been properly stabilised.

(*UVA damage => tanning, hyper-pigmentation, loss of collagen, wrinkles)….

Happy Skin Days’ sunscreen review

Despite this product’s popularity, it doesn’t pass the following sunscreen test.

1) Harmful chemicals present?

Yes, that would be Benzophenone-3 (or Oxybenzone), a hormonal disruptor and a known skin-allergen. (See Chemicals to Avoid – Oxybenzone for more details)

P.S. Fun fact: in the European Union, Oxybenzone is being phased out of sunscreens because of its allergen potential and the fact that manufacturers must display “contains Benzophenone-3” on the label.

3) Harmful effects of both UVA and UVB

Both UVA and UVB have been implicated in photoaging and skin cancer. Therefore its important that sunscreens contain UV filters that protect against over-exposure to both UVB AND UVA.

The following harmful effects tend to be linked with UVA and UVB:

‘UV-filters’ do the heavy lifting in a sunscreen. They protect the skin against certain UVR by absorbing, reflecting or scattering UV radiation.  

3a) UVA and UVB filters present?

Yes.

3b) What filters are present and are they any good?

The product contains the following filters:

• UVB Filter:
  • Ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate (or Octinoxate)
  • Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (or Ensulizole)

• UVA Filter: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (or Avobenzone)
• UVB/UVA Filter: Benzophenone-3 (or Oxybenzone)

Octinoxate is an effective UVB filter (though not super photo-stable) and Ensulizole (commonly found in gel formulations). Both are good UVB filters to have in your sunscreen.

But like most Made in India sunscreens the UVB filters (which protect against sunburn, skin cancer etc) are not the problem.

Its the UVA filters.

3c) The problem child: UVA filter

The primary UVA filter is Avobenzone: a gold standard UVA filter that is notoriously photo-unstable.

Available evidence shows Avobenzone degrades quickly upon exposure to sunlight, reducing its efficacy by as much as 50 and 90 per cent after 60 minutes of exposure.

Source: US Food & Drug Administration website

Usually, Avobenzone is stabilised with multiple PHOTOSTABILISERs.  This product uses Oyxbenzone to stabilise Avobenzone…Is it enough? I don’t think so.

The product also has Octinoxate. Studies show a mixture of Octinoxate and Avobenzone show less absorbance after UV exposure, indicating a photo UNSTABLE formula. Octinoxate makes both itself and Avobenzone less effective.

Its for this reason that you DON’T see this combination in American sunscreens, which also use Avobenzone to provide UVA protection. (Click on LINK for more information).

Closing remarks

The short story is if you buy sunscreen, it should be stable as soon as you put it on. This is not. Skip it.

Please let me know if you have any queries or I’d love to hear your suggestions so please write to me. Click on “EMAIL ME” for my address. I look forward to hearing from you!

See also: Top 5 sunscreen recommendations, Myths About Sun protection, How To Buy Sunscreen: The UVA Cut

Sources and uses:

US20170326062A1 (US Patent application pending)

US9956163B2 (Having previously been published, pre-grant publication)

Ceresole, R., Y.K. Han, M.A. Rosasco, et al., “Drug-Excipient Compatibility Studies in Binary Mixtures of Avobenzone,” Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 64(5), pp. 317-328, 2013.

Nash, J.F., and P.R. Tanner, “Relevance of UV Filter/Sunscreen Product Photostability to Human Safety,” Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine, vol. 30(2-3), pp. 88-95, 2014

Roberts, Jiang, Herndon, Jr, “Facial primer provides immediate and long-term improvements in mild-to-moderate facial hyperpigmentation and fine lines associated with photoaging” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015; 8: 471–477