Introduction
Bioderma has overhauled its sunscreen – the new packaging is exciting (if you are me). The complete range is available at this link I haven’t seen another retailer keep all the product line.
I will be reviewing about 10 of the SPF 50 sunscreens that cover the face.
My initial impression is that the range addresses specific skin concerns: ageing, dryness, rosacea and acne etc
Today’s sunscreen of choice is Bioderma Photoderm SPF 50+ for sensitive dry skin.
In reviewing all my sunscreens I apply the following test, which Bioderma passes with flying colours. Before that, a brief reminder of how important UVA filters are in a sunscreen, because most damage is done by UVA radiation.
Look, feel of the sunscreen
I like everything about this product, so I will start with the best parts
- There is no eye sting: I can apply this to my eyelids and under my eye without their being any burning or irritability. BUT I did rub my eyes and yes, it stings mildy but that’s on me.
- The product is not drying at all. I wouldn’t say its deeply moisturizing but I need to apply a separate moisturizer
- Blends into the skin with no whitecast – you do have to rub a bit
- The initial finish is shiny and you may be tempted to think this will remain – it does not. The finish is matte
- There is no fragrance
Obligatory sunscreen photos…
Happy Skin Day’s Sunscreen test
The harmful chemicals that I look for in sunscreens include BHT, Oxybenzone, Formaldehyde releasing preservatives and parabens. This selection is what I want from my products and if you don’t care about such things, then you can ignore this part of the test.
Bioderma’s sunscreen is an SPF 50 and honestly, there is no reason for me to reject the product. The geeky detail on sunscreen filters is at the bottom of this blog, but this product has an excellent combination of both UVB and UVA filters.
Note that filters act in synergy and its a rare thing to find chemical sunscreens with 2-3 filters.
Would I buy this product again?
Yes, without a doubt. BUT note that this sunscreen (like 99% of all cream sunscreens would be impossible to apply over a face of make-up).
Where can I purchase this?
In India, its available at Nykaa for INR 999. In Europe, the best bet is your local pharmacy otherwise in the UK, click here
This sunscreen is not available in the USA.
***GEEK ALERT***
What sunscreen filters are present?
The product is an excellent combination of the following filters. Note that filters act together in synergy – so usually 5 or 6 filters provide better protection against UV radiation then if just 1 or 2 filters are present.
Ingredients are listed in descending quantity upto 1% and so the order of the first 10 ingredients is usually quite important.
I am always looking for sunscreen filters in the top half of the ingredient list.
Filters present are
DHHB (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate) – Ingredient no 2
Homosalate – Ingredient no 3
BEMT (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) – Ingredient no 5
Ethylhexyl Salicylate – Ingredient no 8
Ethylhexyl Triazone – Ingredient no 9
The protection against UVB radiation is coming from 4 sources: Octisalate, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Triazone and BEMT. The strong UVB protection comes from the last two filters and the weak filters are Octisalate and Homosalate.
BEMT is a broad-spectrum filter that provides superior protection against UVB, UVAII and UVAI (upto 360nm); is photostable (does not break down as soon as it comes out of a tube) and has a large molecular size (not absorbed by the skin). Also, its very effective even at low % quantity.
DHHB is also a broadspectrum filter, providing weak UVB protection (similar to Octisalate) but it does provide superior UVAII and UVAI protection upto 360nm. Like BEMT its a large molecule (not absorbed by the skin) and is effective even at low %
FYI beyond 360nm most filters do not provide decent UVA protection.