Applying this sunscreen test, the product is a “no Buy.”
Harmful chemical: the harmful chemical present is Benzophenone-3 (or Oxybenzone) which is a hormonal disruptor and a skin allergen. (For more information read: Chemicals To Avoid – Benzophenone-3)
Other reasons to reject?
We want the UV filters in sunscreens to protect against over-exposure to both UVB and UVA rays. Harmful effects from UVA are a concern to Indians, as UVA is mainly responsible for photoaging or premature aging. Photoaging is characterised by:
- Hyper-pigmentation
- Wrinkles
- Dryness
- Loss of skin elasticity.
In my view, the product’s combination of filters provides insufficient protection against UVA.
Why?
The primary UVA filter is Avobenzone, which is notoriously photounstable: it reduces in efficacy by 50%-90% within 60 minutes of application.
To stabilise Avobenzone, Brillare have added Oxybenzone and Octocrylene. This works. BUT it also contains Octinoxate, which makes Avobenzone unstable.
American sunscreens also use Avobenzone as primary UVA filters – but in 147 American sunscreens I have analysed – I haven’t seen Avobenzone combined with Octinoxate because of the instability created.
Therefore, it is totally pointless buying a product which offers questionable UVA protection. Skip it.
That’s it from me. I would love to hear from you and please drop me a line at email@happyskindays.com if you have any products you want me to review.
See also: Do You Understand The Gibberish On Sunscreen Labels? Myths About Sun-Protection, What damages does sunscreen prevent? Why read the label of sunscreens? How to buy sunscreen: the UVA cut
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Nerd Edit….
I have more details for the Skincare enthusiasts amongst you.
1. Filters present in this product and their position
Indian law requires ingredients to be listed in decreasing order of quantity, unless the ingredient quantity is below 1% and then they can be listed in any order.
2. Harmful effects of both UVA and UVB
Both UVA and UVB are complicit in causing skin cancer, photoaging, immuno-suppression, but generally speaking we associate the following harmful effects of UVA and UVB:
3. Oxybenzone
The health concerns around this chemical are:
1. Endocrine disruptors: Oxybenzone has been found in the urine samples of 90%+ Americans and breast milk.
Also, high levels of oxybenzone have been liked to Girls with LOWER weights at birth and boys with larger heads.
In all likelihood Oxybenzone is an endocrine/hormonal disruptor.
2. Skin allergen: Oxybenzone is also an allergen for people with pre-existing skin conditions.
3. Disclosure on packaging: India does not require disclosure on labels, but the EU, with its infinitely better sunscreen regulation, requires “Contains Benzophenone-3” to be displayed on labels. (see link)
Notes:
Oxybenzone – further information can be found at the US FDA website (follow this link).