Current trends in American sunscreen part 2 – the consumer perspective

I frequently read articles about the state of the US sunscreen market and as a beauty insider, I feel they are invariably a lament of some description, about how sunscreens could be better for consumers and how its super difficult for manufacturers (poor things) to introduce new ingredients.

In fact, all jokes aside, this is an excellent article on American sunscreen, which you should read, to give you the Industry’s perspective on what is happening.

https://cen.acs.org/business/consumer-products/Cloudy-outlook-sunscreen-ingredients-US/100/i42

However, my focus today is to combine my learnings from reviewing topselling sunscreens on Sephora AND the impact it has on the American status quo OF NOT expanding the list of new UV Filters.

The 7 second Instagram view is: The consumer is losing out b/c sunscreen is one of those products that should be viewed as a public good, and therefore available cheaply to encourage the use of sunscreen.  The opposite has happened in the USA. 

1) Let’s talk sunscreen pricing….

Notes:

1) Sephora bestselling sunscreen (17 Jan 24) data from USA website

2) Average volume is c50ml

3) Average price is US$ 0.82, but data is skewed because of outliers in terms of volume.

4) For sunscreens, with volume 50ml, the range is US$0.30/ml-US$1.00/ml

5) Most expensive sunscreen is Dermalogica SPF 40 mineral sunscreen at US$1.83/ml or US$55.

6) Cheapest sunscreen is Supergoop! PLAY Everyday Lotion SPF 50 at US$ 0.22 or US$ 36 for 162ml

2) New categories of SPF usage, has resulted in increased use of SPF in just about everything…

The restrictions on sunscreen filters coupled with a desire by consumers to use more sunscreen has created new categories of SPF products – are they all providing decent protection?  It goes without saying that an SPF containing face setting powder is providing minimal protection – but lulls consumers in a false sense of security

Some of the products in Sephora’s bestselling sunscreen list include:

• Summer Fridays ShadeDrops Mineral Milk Sunscreen SPF 30 – which is more a primer
• Numerous moisturisers with sunscreen
• Foundations with sunscreen (e.g.) Tower 28 Beauty

3) Innovation in an unexpected way

Innovation is taking place in sunscreen formulation – undoubtedly, the benefit of newer formulations (e.g.) silicone elastomer gels  means the days of whitecast, heavy sunscreen is over – but this comes at a cost

• Another innovation worth mentioning is photostabilisers reducing reliance on Octocrylene in some sunscreens.

4) The number of sunscreen filters that are available for use in the USA is smaller than you think…

Sunscreens are regulated as OTC drugs and per the 1999 Final Monograph, the filters are:

1. PABA
2. Avobenzone
3. Cinoxate
4. Dioxybenzone
5. Ensulizole
6. Homosalate
7. Meradimate
8. Octinoxate
9. Octisalate
10. Octocrylene
11. Oxybenzone
12. Padimate O
13. Sulisobenzone
14. Titanium Dioxide
15. Tromaline Salicylate
16. Zinc Oxide

Of these filters….the following are never seen/seldom used

That pretty much leaves…

1. Avobenzone
2. Homosalate
3. Octisalate
4. Octocrylene
5. Titanium Dioxide
6. Zinc Oxide

And about 4 combinations of sunscreen filters..