The last sunscreen on the Sephora Bestselling Sunscreen list is an offering by Dermalogica. Over the news I have reviewed 2 other dermalogica sunscreens, with varying sentiments and you can read about both below.
1) My thoughts?
As before, this is US$ 55 sunscreen. If I’m paying US$ 55 for a product that I need to apply at least twice a day, then I am doing something wrong. That is a high price point for sunscreen, which I admittedly treat as a merely a mechanism to treat photoageing – but its not just that – the primary purpose is to prevent skin cancer.
2) Ingredients
Please refer to the image of the ingredients
3) What are the UV Filters
The only UV filter is Zinc Oxide, which according to this label is present at 10%. Zinc Oxide is a broadspectrum, photostable filter that provides protection against UVA and UVB radiation.
10% is a low value for Zinc Oxide and a SPF 30 – so if there are indications of sunscreen boosters, I am looking for those. Note that previous iterations of a similar sunscreen bad Titanium Dioxide.
4) Is the ZnO present in nano form?
If I was a betting man, I’d say yes. But the same product is for sale in the EU and nano is not disclosed suggesting this is a non-nano product.
5) Breakdown of the formula
This was a tricky formula to breakdown because there were so many ingredients present to improve skin feel/texture/appearance of product – but were not ingredients I see much of in sunscreens. Also, I am not persuaded I understand the preservative system
The sunscreen is definitely an emulsion:
- Emollients, including dry emollients and solvents for Zinc Oxide: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, ), Olive Oil Decyl Esters (and) Squalene (dry emollient that’s also a silicone alternative)
- Pigment wetting Emollient: Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate
- Encapsulated colorants (some/all) as follows: Iron Oxides (CI 77492) (and) Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer (and) Cellulose Acetate (and) Magnesium Stearate (and) Propylene Glycol Stearate.
- Colorants: Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
- Emulsifier: Lauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone (silicone surfactant), Propylene Glycol Stearate
- Thickener: Silica Silylate, Magnesium Stearate (also used as a binding agent and anti-caking agent
- Ingredients to improve skin-feel/appearance: PEG-10 (I think its PEG 10 Dimethicone), Cellulose Acetate
- Actives helping with skin moisturising: Bisabolol, Allantoin
- Actives and Fragrance: Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Rosa Damascena Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
- Fragrance allergens: Linalool
- Preservatives: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (chelating agent), Phenylpropanol.