In deciding whether or not to use a facewash, I apply this quite rudimentary and basic test of my own design:
1) What surfactants are present and are they mild?
The surfactants present are Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate and Cocoamidopropyl Betaine.
Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulphate has great detergency action: its great at removing dirt and grim. But its primarily used because it produces foam and good lather. (Asians like their facewashes to foam).
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a mild surfactant and its present because it reduces the irritation potential of the other sulphate based detergents.
In theory, these surfactants should create a facewash that is milder than the dreaded Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), but this is not a resounding endorsement of the product given how strong SLS is!!
2) Does the product have a good preservative system?
No.
This product contains Methylisothiazolinone (MI), which is a preservative and a biocide. It’s used in: Industrial products (paints, adhesives, varnishes), Household products and in the USA and India, its also used in cosmetics, shampoos, and sunscreens.
MI is banned in the European Union (EU) in leave-on products, such as sunscreen as its a contact allergen. The EU reached this decision after finding sufficient data in a bunch of European countries that showed not only was MI a contact allergen but also the number of incidences of contact allergy to MI were increasing. In the US, the status of MI is under review but in 2013, the American Contact Dermatitis Society named in as “Allergen of the Year.”
See this Should you avoid products with Methylisothiazolinone? for more information.
However, it is permitted in rinse-off products.
My personal view is that this may cause irritation over time because of how I use this facewash. Am I always going to leave my facewash on for a few seconds or will there be many times when I leave it on for 30 seconds+? What is the prolonged impact of this on my skin? I don’t want to be that guinea pig that finds out if my skin becomes sensitised over time. I just don’t.
Therefore, I do not use MI in leave-on or rinse-off products.
I respect that you may wish to ignore this and please continue reading?
3) Does the product deposit ingredients that help with skin hydration.
In essence I am looking for glycerin, which is not on the ingredient list.
4) Does the product irritate or dry the skin?
I am trying out all face washes on my arm/hand. This has a very pleasant soapy smell. It doesn’t produce a lot of foam but is still quite drying. I would not use this product again just based on the fact that it is so drying and feels as if my skin has been stripped of all oil/sebum.
Will I use this product?
No. Even if I ignore the preservatives in this product, this facewash is too drying.
Available for sale at fabindia. Retail price is INR 250.
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