No 29 on the Sephora Bestselling Sunscreen (USA edition as at 17 Jan 24) is this mineral only sunscreen.
First Aid is a relatively new addition to the sunscreen market and quite honestly, the way sunscreen pours out of the tube, it reminds me of a cheaper version of a superior sunscreen, namely Elizabeth Arden Prevage City Smart SPF50 Hydrating Shield 40ml
1) What is the UV Filter?
The product has a single UV filter: 22% Zinc Oxide (ZnO). ZnO is a broadspectrum filter providing o.k. UVB filter protection but much superior protection against UVA. ZnO has a large molecular size (so “sits” on the skin, with no dermal protection) and is photostable (so does not begin to breakdown as soon as it comes out of the tube).
1a) UV Filter and its impact on the construction of the formula
Ordinarily, 22% or one-fifth of a product that is non-micronized would present a headache to product formulation. But such products are now more common because of improved ingredients.
I think the ZnO takes the form of BotaniSolar OZ-1, which according to the supplier, “is a USP grade Zinc Oxide dispersion with excellent transparency. All Zinc Oxide particles are over 100 nm for true non-nano claims. This natural mineral UV filter is surface coated and dispersed in a stable olive-derived emollient for non-greasy physical protection, ease of formulation, and luxurious sensory aesthetics.”
BotaniSolar OZ-1 has INCI Name: Zinc Oxide (and) Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Squalane (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid.
1b) Pigments..
The second aspect of using ZnO at a high % is the presence of all manner of colorants/pigments, designed to reduce the chalkiness of the ZnO in the formula.
1c) Smell..
I have not tried this product, but I would be stunned if it do not absolutely smell. There is no fragrance in the product (which I guess is part of the appeal).
2) Breakdown of the formulation
- Actives
- Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (anti-oxidant)
- Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feverfew) Extract (anti-inflammatory)
- Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (anti-inflammatory)
- Colorants
- Mica (CI 77019), Iron Oxides (CI 77492), Iron Oxides (CI 77491), Iron Oxides (CI 77499), Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).
- Emollient:
- Butylene Glycol
- Caprylyl Glycol
- Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Squalane
- Isododecane
- Emulsifiers
- Primary emulsifier is BENTONE® LUXE WN, that according to the supplier, “provides emulsification and rheological properties for silicone free water in oil systems.” Full INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
- Ingredients improving skin-feel of product
- Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, which is a modified start that is used as a softening/texturing agent
- Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Squalane (non-greasy emollient used to give sensorial enhancement
- Preservatives
- Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate (Chelating agent)
- Tocopherol and/or Tocopheryl Acetate (reduce rancidity in product, thereby prolonging shelf-life)
- Phenoxyethanol
- Stabilisers for emulsion:
- Polyhydroxystearic Acid
- UV Filter: Zinc Oxide (and) Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Squalane (and) Trihydroxystearin (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid
- Wetting agents: Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate,