Never heard of this brand…
It is a heart warming story – the brand was started by two Russian immigrants in the USA almost 30 years ago. They started with one store and now thanks to etailers (and I assume products that work), you can buy them practically everywhere. The focus is very much on keeping ingredients “clean.”
What am I testing?
I am testing a Black Tea firming overnight mask. This appears to be a bestseller for the brand. The instructions are to cleanse and apply a generous layer. Instructions on the product website indicate that you can use it in place of a moisturiser.
How did I test it?
1) Washed face with Forest Essential Mashobra Honey, Lemon and Rosewater face cleanser.
2) Used fresh Vitamin Nectar Vibrancy Face Mask, which acts as a mild exfoliant.
3) Used a toner
4) Used the black tea mask as directed. Directions are, “apply a generous layer onto damp, cleansed skin before bed. Leave on overnight. Can be used nightly as the final step of your skincare ritual.”
Results
The mask smells amazing; the texture is fantastic but most importantly, my skin did feel firmer and fuller in the morning. I live in a dry climate and I generally wake up with tight skin (moisture loss during the night) but not with this mask. My skin felt softer and hydrated in the morning.
Would I buy this product again?
This is an expensive product, as its US$ 90 for 100ml or US$ 35 for 30ml. I would skip breakfast for an entire fortnight, and I would use it buy this product. Failing that, I’d get as many free samples as I could.
I really do love this product and I love the fact that it works so well with the Vibrancy Boosting Face Mask. If you can easily afford this product then you should consider adding this to your stable of regular products. If you can’t easily afford this product, then I will find a cheaper product: it may not have the same user experience, but I am going to try.
See also other face mask reviews: skyn Iceland Vit C mask; skyn Iceland clay mask; skyn Iceland eye and face gel patches/mask; Glamglow powermud dual cleanser; Wishful yo glow enzyme scrub review
P.S. Let’s talk ingredients…
There are 52 ingredients in the list. More than 50 % of these ingredients have nothing to do with the “goodness” of the product or the benefit the product imparts to your skin. I like to think of them as supporting actors – they ensure the film is an excellent experience, but don’t play the most vital roles.
Which ingredients are vital?
I will selectively highlight some ingredients that are vital to this product. This is based on my research and conjecture:
(Note: an emollient creates a protective smooth film on skin surface and hence is moisturising)
- Jojoba Esters: is a mixture of esters, with all being emollients, smoothing and softening.
- Other emollients include: Butylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric triglyceride
- Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil: It contains anti-oxidant ingredients, mainly green tea catechins; provides anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, and skin brightening effects. It is rich in vitamin A, C and E.
- Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract: used in skincare for its firming and elasticity effect
- Miravilis Jalapa Extract: (apparently): according to a manufacturer, “this pacifies the communication between the epidermis and nerve endings by modulating the level of sensory receptors and messengers. This product also stimulates the synthesis of various key components of the epidermis including ceramides, occludin and hyaluronic acid. “
- Rubus Fructicosus (Blackberry) Leaf extract: protects against premature skin ageing. According to a manufacturer, it stimulates the dermis metabolism and helps to maintain the extra cellular matrix proteins balance for a firmer skin.
- Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate or Fermented Yeast Filtrate is rich in essential minerals, amino acids and vitamins. It restores the appearance of the skin texture, suppleness and vitality
- Sodium Hyaluronate: is a salt of Hyaluronic Acid. Hyaluronic Acid is normally found in skin, connective and nerve tissue and compared to other natural and synthetic polymers, has the greatest capacity to hold water. Its a natural humectant and it preserves elasticity and firmness of the skin with its moisture retention properties, giving skin a softer feel and more youthful appearance.
How about the other ingredients?
The bulk of these contribute to ensuring some of the following for the product. Note that some ingredients have multiple functions (e.g.) Butylene Glycol is both a solvent and an emollient. This is very much my view of the formulation.
- Solvent (ingredients mix together): Water, Butylene Glycol,
- Texture is great; Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate
- Tt doesn’t split into its oil and water components (emulsifiers): Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Laurate, Maltodextrin, Ceteareth-20, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Steareth-21
- pH is maintained: Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate
- Its thickened enough to use: Sodium Polyacrylate, Silica, Hydroxyethylcellulose
- Longevity against metal ions is maintained: Disodium EDTA, Tetrasodium EDTA
- It doesn’t oxidize easily (anti-oxidants): Tocopheryl Acetate
- Its protected against fungus, bacteria etc (preservatives) – BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol
- Smells not not awful (fragrance) – Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol
Sources and uses
https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1341729.pdf?bs=1240&b=407814&st=20&r=na&ind=personalcare