Hyaluronic Acid in skincare (part 2 of 2)

4) The elephant in the room: the metabolism of hyaluronic acid (HA)

Most folks recommending that you use HA gloss over the following: 

In a person that weighs 70kg, HA levels are c15 grams.  Of this, 50% of HA is present in the skin, of which most is present in the dermis. The half life of HA in the skin is less than 24 hours.  So with dermal fillers, even if it comprises of just HA, its going to readsorbed by the dermis and metabolised by the liver within 24 hours.

If you take one thing away from these notes, its hopefully the above.

4a) How do dermal fillers overcome this?

With dermal fillers, the rapid metabolism of HA is achieved by cross-linking structures, so that it takes a longer time – months – for the skin to metabolise the HA.

There are so many dermal fillers on the market, (its borderline ridiculous), but what I observed was that the mechanism for cross-linking HAcreated slightly different product.   This cross-linking results in the polymer becoming very viscous and assuming the consistency of a gel.  HA gels uses as skin fillers are called hydrogels.  

I came across a patent that said one of the challenges of  hydrogels was injecting them into the dermis – because they were so viscous – was difficult. (The patent was about addressing this).

5) Hydrogels and topical treatment

It is very likely that hydrogels as described above and that we know are lasting for months as dermal fillers are not present in topical treatments.  The cost-benefit analysis doesn’t work but also, the high molecular weight of these gels would prevent absorption by the epidermis.

6) HA in topical products

When I started to look at HA, I had in my own mind a bias which narrowed my field of vision:  I was thinking of HA in the same way as I thought of retinol or vitamin C. A quick search on Sephora USA quickly disabused me of my bias…

 My inescapable conclusion is this:  whether you want to use HA or not is irrelevant:  the chances are you are already using it.

7) What is the evidence on the effectiveness of topical HA?

HA-based cosmetics such as “Fillerina® (Labo Cosprophar Suisse) claims to restore skin hydration and elasticity: this is reported to exert an anti-wrinkle effect, although no rigorous scientific proof is able to fully substantiate this claim.

It has to be considered that HA’s hydrating effect largely depends  on its MW, and its longevity depends on HA stability to hyaluronidases. Indeed, HMW HA mainly works as a film-forming polymer: it reduces water evaporation, with an occlusive-like action. On the  other hand, medium MW and LMW HA mainly work by binding moisture from the environment, do to their high hygroscopicity…

In plain English, HMW hyaluronic acid sits on top of the skin and forms an occlusive film and is likely also a humectant.   LMW and MMW may penetrate into the epidermis and as humectants, bind water.

I am not convinced that hyaluronic acid (LMW or MMW) is able to penetrate the basement membrane and find its way to the dermis.  I am sorry I am simply not.

8) What are the studies/findings on hyaluronic acid in topical treatments?

Absolute every study I found (with the exception of one in German) was funded by a beauty manufacturer.  These are free and readily available online.

The German study, investigated whether the daily use of an anti-wrinkle cream containing hyaluronic acid for three months has an effect on the depth of wrinkles as well as skin firmness and elasticity.  Twenty patients, who were divided into four groups, each with a similar age, received four different anti-wrinkle creams containing hyaluronic acid in different price categories (Balea, Nivea, Lancôme, Chanel) for daily use

The conclusion was this:  “through the regular use of hyaluronic acid-containing skin creams over a period of three months, a positive development of wrinkle depth and skin firmness could be demonstrated with the help of objective measurement methods. Based on the study design, however, no isolated conclusions can be drawn regarding the effectiveness of hyaluronic acid-based anti-wrinkle creams.”

In conclusion

There are many interesting HA serums in the market, with upto 12 different hyaluronic acid mixtures! I will be testing about 6 from now till the new year. Given the metabolism of Hyaluronic Acid in the skin, I should be able to asses whether its worth spending your dime on.

I won’t be testing £300 Barbara Strum HA serum. I am sure that surprises no-one.

My first guinea pig will be NIOD with its 12 different types of hyaluronic acid variants/….

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