I will be applying this test to check whether this is a skin lightening product.
This product has none of the harmful chemicals that I look for. (These chemicals include BHT (Butylated hydroxytoluene), parabens, and Benzophenone-4).
Q2 and Q3) Are skin lightening ingredients present and the strategy for skin lightening?
The product has skin lightening ingredients. The strategy is to use the combination of SLI and sunscreen filters to cause skin to lighten.
There are only two SLI: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (PAD) and Sodium Ascorbate Phosphate (SAP). SAP is a Vitamin C derivative, and while Vitamin C is a skin lightener (see this BLOG) it is also the second to last ingredient in this product. This indicates that it’s percentage is less than 1% in this product and therefore, its contribution to skin lightening in this product is really not worth any more additional space.
My view is that this product only relies on PAD to facilitate skin lightening. PAD is a derivative of Azelaic Acid and the amino acid Glycine. PAD is a standard skin lightening ingredient that you will find in many Asian (Korean especially) skincare. According to manufacturers the reason for using PAD instead of Azelaic Acid, is PAD is easier to formulate with and delivers the skin lightening of Azelaic Acid. Thailand bans the use of Azelaic Acid and using PAD is a good workaround for manufacturers.
PAD is a tyrosinase enzyme inhibitor. Tyrosinase is the rate limiting enzyme that is critical for the formation of the skin colour pigments, eumelanin (dark) and pheomelanin (red-yellow). A reduction in the amount of melanin will lighten skin as there is less dark skin pigment in the top layer of the skin.
(See also: What gives our skin its colour, How is skin pigment melanin made)
Given PAD is present as the second ingredient is the product list, I can believe that this product has sufficient quantities of SLI to be effective.
Sunscreen filters
As with Swiss Image, this product also has sunscreen filters, which is a good thing to have in a whitening product.
This is because one of the immediate body responses to over-exposure to UV radiation is that your body produces more melanin. More melanin results in tanning and darkening of skin complexion. The sunscreen filters present are: Avobenzone, Octocrylene, Octinoxate and Titanium Dioxide.
Closing remarks
I like this product – its strategy is to use one “hero” ingredient namely, PAD and sun protection. Given PAD is the second listed ingredient, the product is likely to be effective.
If you do plan use to use this product, please absolutely use a separate sunscreen product. You cannot rely on the protection offered by this product – it is simply insufficient
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