I will be applying this test:
Q1) Are there harmful chemicals contained in this product?
Some of the harmful chemicals I look for include parabens and this contains, methyl- and propyl- paraben. Parabens – are cheap and effective preservatives that are endocrine system disruptors (estrogen mimickers). Other manufacturers manage to avoid parabens, so I don’t see why any manufacturer needs to use them (See also Chemicals to Avoid – Parabens).
If you are completely fine with using whitening cream with harmful chemicals, then I respect your prerogative to do so. Please continue reading.
Q2) Are skin lighteners present? (Q3) What is the product’s strategy for skin lightening?
The product has Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) extract, which is one of the safest skin lightening agents, with few side effects. When you find it in a product, its likely that the licorice extract is essentially Glabridin. Glabridin is a tyrosinase inhibitor and therefore reduces the amount of skin pigment, melanin in the skin. This makes skin look lighter.
The principal disadvantages of Glabridin are its insufficient skin-entering capacity and its instability in a formulation.
In this product, there is insufficient amounts of licorice extract for it to be a truly effective skin lightener by itself, as licorice extract is listed as the 18th ingredient on the product label.
Skin lightening strategy
The product’s skin lightening strategy comprises of anti-oxidants and sunscreen filters. In theory, this is a good idea – but its predicated on SUFFICIENT QUANTITIES being present in the product.
As all the anti-oxidants and sunscreen filters are present towards the end of the label, I don’t think there are sufficient quantities. Therefore, even if this is a good combination, it does not work if you don’t have enough of the active ingredient present.
(Anti-oxidants
There are 2 anti-oxidants, Green tea and Grape seed extract. The intention is that these anti-oxidants will react with reactive oxygen species that are caused by UV exposure. This prevents damage to the skin but also the aim is to prevent the body from producing melanin.
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E form) is also present. This is an anti-oxidant as well, but is usually added to formulas to prevent oxidation of the body lotion itself, so I am ignoring it.
Sunscreen filters
These are Octinoxate, Avobenzone, and Titanium Dioxide. Avobenzone is the primary protection against UVA, and as most of UV radiation is UVA, its good that this product has Avobenzone. BUT the product does not have an Avobenzone stabiliser, so really the Avobenzone is just going to breakdown. Octinoxate and Titanium at best, provide mainly protection against UVB radiation.)
Closing remarks
Naturally, I don’t like this product because it contains parabens. But if you are Ok with parabens, the problem still remains that there are insufficient quantities of the following:
- Licorice extract, the primary skin lightening ingredient
- Anti-oxidants: green tea and grape seed extracts
- Sunscreen filters: Octinoxate, Avobenzone and Titanium Dioxide
for there to be meaningful skin lightening. It is, without a doubt, a good combination of ingredients (minus the parabens): there just is not enough of the good stuff.
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Ingredients
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