Natural Moisturizing Factors – the 50,000 feet view

If you are a regular reader, you’ll know that I like to get under the skin of a topic I am researching and understand the science involved.

I aim to use this knowledge and write better product reviews.

However, an intermediate step is a geeky blog and before I this blog, I wanted to write a 50,000 feet view of Natural Moisturising Factors and Lipids…but before that…

A well-organised Stratum Corneum….

The skin has three layers: the Epidermis, Dermis, and Hypodermis. The Stratum Corneum (“SC”) (or the skin barrier or the horny layer) is the topmost layer of the epidermis (and the skin).

It is what is visible. “Soft and supple” skin has tightly knit corneocytes organised in a flattened manner. (See also blog, Basic Guide to Moisturizers)

NMF and lipids in the Stratum Corneum

NMF are a mix of compounds including amino acids, lactate and so on. Lipids include free fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides.

Typically NMF and lipids form 20%-30% of the Stratum Corneum in dry weight. NMFs are found in the corneocytes. Lipids are located in the lamellar lipid matrix.

This alignment of the corneocytes in the SC is what makes skin “soft” and “supple.” The NMF and lipids are at peace (or homeostasis) with the other elements around them.

Both are essential for a proper functioning skin barrier. One of these crucial functions is reducing the amount of TEWL from the epidermis and keeping the skin hydrated.  

If there were no Stratum Corneum, then we would dry out.

If the skin is dry (e.g., low humidity, age, medical condition such as diabetes etc.), then the corneocytes are not aligned tightly.

The Stratum Corneum looks like this:

The aim of skincare products is always restoration and maintaining the skin barrier.

I agree this is easier said than done.

Should you then be looking for NMF in your moisturiser and lipids?

The short answer is that your moisturiser probably already contains NMF and lipids. Here are some products that contain Glycerin, a NMF.

In terms of lipids, the ratio of cholesterol: ceramides: fatty acids in a product is a more critical factor, then whether the product contains ceramides or not.

Should you be paying an extortionate amount for NMF and lipids?

Remember that the NMF occupy the Stratum Corneum, the topmost layer of the skin and what is visible. The NMFs here have the most water-binding ability.

Key to maintaining a soft and supple SC is desquamation – release of dead cells so the new corneocytes can come up. Otherwise, the build-up of dead cells can cause the skin to become dry.

Typically, skin desquamates every 28 days. But as you age and if you have dry skin, this takes longer – even 40 days.

The skincare industry, therefore, wants you to exfoliate regularly. (Products include Yo Wishful Enzyme Scrub).

These remove the corneocytes that contain the NMF. The NMFs in your expensive product does not penetrate the deeper layers. For example, NMFs in the dermis would wreak havoc on the water balance because they are hygroscopic. Your expensive GBP 600 bottle of NMF only makes senses if it lasts more than 30 days because you are only feeding the top visible layer of the skin.

If you want to start using NMF and Hylauronic Acid, then honestly, the Ordinary does an excellent product that even Indians can use.

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