We need protection from both UVA and UVB and I want my sunscreen to be my knight in shining armour and save me from tanning, hyper-pigmentation, wrinkles and so on.
Alas, sunscreen is similar to a set-up by your best friend – you can see the rose tinted view of your date that resembles a stumbling, incoherent one-eyed Cyclops was completely unjustified. Similarly, sunscreen is the embodiment of disappointment for two reasons:
- Studies show the QUANTITY of sunscreen applied by test samples is BELOW the recommended dose of 6 teaspoons (or 36 grams) per average sized adult. Anything below the recommended quantity will drastically reduce the efficacy of the product.
- Sunscreen becomes less effective over time. For example, Avobenzone, a superior UVA filter is photounstable, degrading as soon as its exposed to sunlight.
To counter these limitations, sunscreen needs to be reapplied: I see “every 2 hours” as standard dermatological recommendation. Is every 2 hours REALLY necessary for darker skinned individuals – Types IV to Type VI (see Fitzpatrick scale)? In my view, if I sweat off my sunscreen/wipe my face in a 2 hour window, I will definitely reapply and otherwise, I use sunscreen every 4-5 hours.
Is there a difference between European and American sunscreens?
Yes. My view is that European sunscreen is superior to American sunscreen. Why? Better regulation: since 2007, all EU sunscreens contain UVA and UVB filters AND one-third must be UVA filters, which is logical, given the bulk of UVR is UVA.
In the USA the FDA that regulates over the counter sunscreen sales recently said:
“….the potential confusion permitted by the current labeling regime, in which a higher numbered product (for example, one labeled SPF 30) may provide inferior protection against UVA radiation than a lower numbered product (for example, one labeled broad spectrum SPF 15).”
Keeping these limitations in mind, let’s turn to sunscreen gibberish.
What is SPF or Sun Protection Factor?
SPF indicates how much longer PROTECTED SKIN can be exposed to the lowest UV dose before reddening (erythema). Its calculated as the ratio of
(Time to produce erythema in protected skin)/(Time to produce erythema in unprotected skin)
E.g., if your skin without sun-protection reddens after 10 mins and with sunscreen reddens after 300 minutes, then the SPF =300/10 = 30. If a product is SPF 50, then this means only 1/50th of the UVR is not reaching your skin. Should you interpret this to mean you can stay outside for 50 x longer?
NO and please see the limitations outlined above. Also note that SPF is principally a measure of protection against UVB and not UVA.
How do we measure UVA?
In the EU, UVA is measured via a modified version of the persistent pigment darkening (PPD) method, which measures how long it takes for UVA to cause a persistent darkening or tanning of the skin. (If anyone wants more information, please write to me/comment below).
The nuts and bolts of European sunscreen labelling
When I worked in tax (please don’t judge me), sometimes telling a client verbatim what the tax law was, was the best explanation and this is also true of EU labelling of sunscreen products.
Sunscreen products are regulated as cosmetic products but we are interested in a short document that regulates, “the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims relating thereto (the rules)”.
These rules allow you to assume the following about sunscreen products you BUY in the EU:
- The product contains BOTH UVB and UVA protection.
- The minimum UVA protection is at least 1/3 of the SPF. As the SPF increases so the UVA protection will also increase.
- The critical wavelength to test sunscreen products is 370nm.
- The combination of active ingredients in sunscreen products MUST block or absorb UVB and UVA upto 370nm. See this post for UVA/UVB reminder.
- Sunscreen products must carry one of the following labels:
- ‘low protection’ (this relates to SPF 6 – SPF 10)
- ‘medium protection ‘ (this relates to SPF 15 – SPF 25)
- ‘high protection ‘ (this relates to SPF 30 – SPF 50)
- ‘very high protection’ (this relates to SPF 50+)
- Products CANNOT make these claims:
- that the product provides TOTAL or 100% protection from harmful effects of UV radiation – this is especially true for babies and young children.
- that the product is a “sunblock,” “sunblocker,” or provides “total protection.”
- there is no need to re-apply the product under any circumstances (e.g., all day protection).
- Rules also set-out standardised methods for testing SPF and UVA (footnote 1).
How does this translate into the label?
The image shows the packaging for ultrasun and the following are mandatory. You should as a minimum look for sign of 3: SPF, UVA and labelled category):
- SPF number must be displayed
- UVA logo is standardised (“broadspectrum” or any other fancy connotation of UVA are superfluous)
- A labelled category is present (low to very high)
- The warnings that should be displayed and instructions to achieve efficacy of the product are:
- Apply the sunscreen product before exposure
- Sufficient quantity needs to be applied on skin to achieve effectiveness
- Product needs to be reapplied frequently to maintain protection, especially after perspiring, swimming or towelling
- Do not stay too long in the sun, even while using a sunscreen product
- Keep babies and young children out of direct sunlight
- Over-exposure to the sun is a serious health threat
I would love to hear what you think, so please email me or leave a comment. More later!
See also: Myths About Sun Protection, Guide Buying Sun Protection, Chemicals to Avoid – Benzophenone-3, Sun protection – products that make the cut
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Footnotes
- SPF is determined by the International Sun Protection Factor Test Method (2006) and
UVA is assessed based on a modified version of the Persistent Pigment method - Labelled category protection
- ‘low protection’ (this relates to SPF 6 – SPF 10)
- ‘medium protection ‘ (this relates to SPF 15 – SPF 25)
- ‘high protection ‘ (this relates to SPF 30 – SPF 50)
- ‘very high protection’ (this relates to SPF 50+)
See also Top 5 Sunscreen Recommendations, Guide to Buying Sun Protection, Do You Know Your Filters?
Sources and uses: Commission Recommendation of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreen products and claims made relating thereto (2006/647/EC),https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2019/02/26/2019-03019/sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use