Supergoop! has 4 sunscreens (!!) on Sephora’s bestseller list, and this is the last of them.
Composition of sunscreen = Base Emulsion + Sunscreen Filters + Actives.
Actives include excellent moisturing agents (mushroom extract) and its very tempting to treat this as replacing part of your skincare routine and not just a sunscreen. I think that would be a mistake.
My view is products like this are sunscreens for two reasons. Firstly, there is a structural problem. This sunscreen has old-fashioned filters at over 20%, and the primary objective is the stability of the sunscreen, which many DIFFERENT actives or Actives at a high % can break. I am sure many of us spend our time at the borderline of what % the emulsion will break, the preservative system will stop working, etc.
Secondly, the actives support the sunscreen’s performance. For example, this sunscreen has many anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatories, which reduce the Reactive Oxygen Species Activity at the skin surface, thereby (temporarily) reducing the UV-induced cascade of photo-ageing.
It’s worth reminding ourselves that photo-ageing very much depends mainly on factors OTHER than the sunscreen itself. For example, the pre-existing condition of the underlying skin and, has 2mg/cm2 been applied?
Here is a breakdown of the formula itself. Note that the actives can be present in many different forms – and I have taken a best guess of what they could be.
I always look forward to your comments and please ask your Qs or suggest further products you’d like to see analysed.
Sunscreen filter breakdown
In the USA, because sunscreens are regulated as OTC drugs, you get full disclosure of % of sunscreen filters. Filters present are:
- UVA filter: Avobenzone (3%)
- UVB filter: weak UVB filters are Homosalate (9%), Octisalate (9%). Reasonably ok UVB filter is Octocrylene (9%)
Avobenzone is the gold standard UVA filter and present at its maximum value in this sunscreen – its stabilised by the high % of Octocrylene
EMULSION breakdown
Emollients
Low weight and dryish emollients appear to be
- C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate,
- Triethyl Citrate
Emulsifier
Emulsifiers are Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and Sodium Polyacrylate. According to the manufacturer, Sodium Polyacrylate is also a cold-emulsion emulsifier, which is excellent
Preservative system
I love looking at the preservative system of products (b/c who doesn’t!!) and I believe its multiple components:
- Hydroxyacetophenone
- Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate
- Caprylyl Glycol
Many of the actives themselves will also be preserved
Actives
I count 8 actives in this product as follows
Hydrating actives
The Moisturiser + Hyaluronic Acid replacement is Mushroom Extract. INCI name is Aqua (and) Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract (and) Betaine (and) Glycerin
The second active is Raspberry + Rosemary extract, which are designed to support the cell membrane function, maintain moisture in the skin etc. INCI name of ingredient is Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Extract (and) Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Anti-oxidant actives
There are few of these, namely:
- Apple Extract (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract),
- Tea Extract (could be white or green) (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract)
Anti-inflammatory actives
- Lavender Extract, which is supposed to protect against indoor pollution (?). INCI is likely Glycerin (and) Water (and) Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
- Sage Extract (Maltodextrin (and) Water (and) Sage Extract OR Propanediol (and) Water (and) Sage Extract)
Blue light active
- Sakadikium™( Glycerin (and) Water (and) Hedychium Coronarium Root Extract – According to the manufacturer, “It brings multi protection to the skin against blue light, UV, Infra-red (IR), heat, air pollution and chronological aging. The skin brightness is visibly improved, complexion is more radiant and homogeneous.”
Other actives
The final active appears to be Sprout Extract (Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract (and) Pullulan (and) Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan (and) Caesalpinia Spinosa Gum (and) Maltodextrin (and) Water)
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