Sunscreen no 2 on Sephora USA’s bestseller list is this tinted option.
In the USA, Sephora include the narrative SPF 40 with Hyaluronic Acid + Niacinamide, which is slightly redundant as so many sunscreens do
What do I think of this sunscreen?
Sunscreen filters
The filters in the sunscreen are Avobenzone (at max of 3%), Octisalate (5%) and Octocrylene ((10%). Avobenzone provides gold standard protection against UVA filters and Octocrylene at 10% stabilises it. I think it might be too much Octocrylene tbh but that’s ok.
The sunscreen sold in the USA also lists the UVA rating as PA+++
There used to be (about 4 years ago) very little incentive for American sunscreens to reinvent themselves. You may find supergoop! a bit plasticky given the amount of silicone present, but its a decent sunscreen that encourages at least one reapplication. Its simply not good enough (in terms of being like a 2nd skin) to reapply again. Its a good American sunscreen and you’re going to struggle to find a better tinted version in the US.
What do I think of the formula?
The formula is horrendously complicated. My view is there are TOO many ingredients and it should be updated.
I appreciate this is not a quick ask – cost is a huge consideration when reformulating, stability testing and customer acceptance all deter brands for improving existing formulas. As this formula is sold in the EU – do you reformulate for that market and what are the regulatory requirements?? If its not broken, why fix it?
However, this sunscreen just has TOO MANY old school emollients, solvents, solubilisers/dispersants. Also, the preservative system is an absolute mess, even though I get what’s happening. The brand wants to avoid using phenoxyethanol and parabens, so its literally thrown the proverbial equivalent of the preservative kitchen sink in the formula.
The Formula
Base = Emulsion, which means that = Aqueous Phase + Oil Phase + Preservative System
Added as part of this are Sunscreen Filters + Solubilisers/Dispersant agents
Plus: Colorants + Dispersing Agents
Finally: add Actives
Oil phase
Oil Phase comprises of Emollients (which are light weight and are designed to have a good skin feel) and Emulsifiers. The emulsifiers are listed above and are old-school – they perform no function except
Preservative system
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate appears to be the chelating agent of choice for supergoop! and appears several times. Tocopherol, when it appears in a formulation according to me, is there to prevent rancidity. I’ll direct your attention to the remainder ingredients which are preservatives. Did this very synthetic formula need so MANY preservatives.
Actives
The principal actives are Niacinamide, Panthenol and Sodium Hyaluronate. The only one that poses problems is Niacinamide because its a very pH sensitive ingredient. The hyaluronic acid is likely a high molecular weight one that has film forming properties.
Niacinamide would not be my first choice in a sunscreen at all because its a skin lightener – i dont think it should be part of a sunscreen’s strategy at all.