**Last updated on 27 September 2021**
I grew up in Africa. My childhood was as it should be – full of other children, trees, bare feet and laughter. Recently, I met a few of my co-conspirators from that time and after mentioning “new collagen synthesis” and “topical Vitamin C” in the same sentence, our conversation took a pleasant turn to product suggestions.
This is a short and hands on guide for first time users. It is meant and designed to be a basic Vitamin C guide. And for clarity, Vitamin C in this blog means L-Ascorbic Acid AND not a Vitamin C derivative.
The sole objective of first time use is to acclimate your skin to Vitamin C without damaging your skin barrier. (see also “Why you should use a topical Vitamin C serum” and “About your skin barrier.”)
Step 1: Buy a low percentage Vitamin C starter pack
Start with anything above 8% (see why here). I would suggest Clinique, who have an excellent one week product: Clinique Fresh Pressed 7-Day system with pure Vitamin C.
Please do not be tempted by the infinite number of Ordinary products. I appreciate peanuts may cost more than Ordinary products now, but they are very potent and tricky to use.
Step 2: Be wary of the C-sting and break-outs
The dual purpose of a one-week trial is to check if you break-out/ get a rash after using Vitamin C. If you do, then Vitamin C may not be for you. Sorry.
Secondly, you will experience a mild burning sensation (the sting) that quickly subsides when you use the Vitamin C serum. This stinging is common and it may last more than a fortnight. I have met many women who say Vitamin C makes their skin photosensitive. I am not sure that this is correct, but I am telling you this because the “mild burning sensation” can be quite persistent and is not photosensitivity.
Its your skin, and you need to make a judgment call: if there is simply too much stinging, stopping using this product.
Those of you with delicate olfactory senses, may find pure Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) smells. I don’t think at 10% there is an odour but cheap 30% Vitamin C products positively reeks. One online reviewer wrote,“are we just going to ignore that this 30% product smells like a dead fish?”
Step 2a: Will the product cause me to darken?
If the L-Ascorbic Acid becomes yellow (starting from pale yellow) then it has OXIDISED and become another compound that will cause you to tan or darken.
Step 3: How to use the powder cleanser and the Vitamin C serum
Cleanser:
- Use the cleanser once a day at night.
- Add water to the powder and bring it to the point where it starts to foam. Apply it and initially leave it on for 20 seconds and build up to a minute.
- You can use this cleanser as a substitute to your everyday cleanser but this won’t take off oil-based make up etc.
Vitamin C serum:
- Use the serum twice a day.
- Clinique suggest you add the Vitamin C to your moisturizer. This does not work. Instead I add one pump to a maximum of about 2-3 drops of Argan oil (available from the Ordinary or Neal’s Yard) to give a spreadable consistency to the serum.
- Remember the order of application is Cleanser, Toner, Serum, Moisturiser and then Sunscreen. It’s completely fine to then start your make-up routine…
- Push the serum into your skin. Don’t pat, push. If you are wondering what the difference is, watch this video.
Step 4: Once your skin is happily adjusted….be patient
Your skin should within a week look much brighter (not lighter or whiter).
However, long-term results with L-Ascorbic Acid take time.
Studies which conclude with new collagen formation, as the primary reason for reduced photo-damage, wrinkles etc are based on 8, 12 and 16 weeks worth of data.
Step 5: Find your go-to Vitamin C serum
I am a big fan of Vitamin C as L-Ascorbic Acid and not its derivatives and mainly because we have a shedload of data proving L-Ascorbic Acid’s many merits (anti-oxidant, collagen synthesis and skin lightening). (see Topical Vitamin C derivatives).
You could keep going with Clinique, but as part of my Clinique product-test, I am spending about US$ 100 per month on the Vitamin C serum, which is a lot.
I’ve made some alternative suggestions below, but honestly, whatever works for you is what you should choose!.
Step 6: Please use a sunscreen
Vitamin C has the effect of lightening skin – which it does so by reducing melanin in the skin. The skin pigment, melanin is essentially the skin’s inbuilt SPF and absorbs UV radiation. You need to let the Vitamin C do its job and support its action by regularly applying sunscreen.
WHICH PRODUCT TO BUY?
No 1: NIOD Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 30%
Hands down this is the best and stable Vitamin C product that I have used, especially if you live in a hot and humid country. Available for sale at NIOD for about US$ 50. Price varies depending on where you live.
No 2: Clinique Ascorbic Acid
The really good thing about this product is that you know when its not stable because quickly turns yellow if not stored in the fridge. Each shot cost US$ 25 and I’d rather waste that, then US$ 170 Skinceutical Vitamin C below…
No 3: Skinceuticals
Hands down this is a brilliant Vitamin C formulation – but it cost US$ 170 for 30ml AND as soon as it starts to colour, you need to bin it….
No 4: Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum
I like this formulation but honestly, many people don’t…GBP 67 for 30ml (at the time of writing). Available at Sephora, Cultbeauty, Space NK
No 4: Paula’s Choice has a similar formula
GBP 46 for 20ml. Also available at Sephora, Cultbeauty and Net a porter
And finally,
I hope that was helpful. I am always happy to receive feedback. Drop me at email@happyskindays.com line if you have any queries 🙂