I’m not fond of the cold, and every winter, I tend to stock up on similar body products, like those shown below and yes, I like variety.
These are, body:
- Butters(from Juicy Chemistry, Kama Ayurveda),
- Cream (Forest Essential)
- Milk concentrate (L’Occitane)
- Milk (Forest essential)
- Moisturiser (Kama Ayurveda)
- Oil (Herbivore
The reason for today’s blog is to explain the semi-technical difference between these categories and therefore, help you be more informed when you buy your next product. Before that, most of these terms are nonsensical marketing terms: L’Occitane’s “milk concentrate” has nothing to do with baby milk powder and is an emulsion. Similarly, the distinction between a body milk, cream and moisturiser is usually the thickness of the product, which in turn depends on how much water it contains.
a) What is a body butter?
From a skincare formulation perspective, the only “true” body butter is by Juicy Chemistry.
This organic body butter is a combination of plant butters (shea, mango seed, cocoa butter), oils (almond, jojoba and olive), aromas (citrus essential oil and vanilla extract) and a single anti-oxidant (Vitamin E).
This product has no PRESERVATIVES or any other chemical (e.g.) a pH adjuster because this product is anhydrous (that is, has no water).
Therefore, when you use this product, you must scoop small amounts with a dry spoon, so that you don’t introduce water, as products with water require preservation – and this has none.
(1) How to use this product?
The best way to use this is to rub the butter into your hands – it should melt and then apply to damp skin.
(2) Why would you use such a product?
I will confess that the shea butter’s graininess in Juice Chemistry’s products completely initially put me off. BUT my skin is not uniform.
For the normal to quite dry skin on my legs and elbows, this is the best product to use. It relieves dryness and does a better job of making my skin softer and more supple than other products.
b) What is an emulsion?
Apart from Herbivore’s body oil, all the other products listed above are EMULSIONS.
An emulsion is a mix of oil and water in a single uniform form. Such products by necessity have at least the following ingredients:
- Emulsifier – the only function of such components is to enable the oil and water to mix without breaking down into constituent oil and water parts. Depending on the quantity of water, the emulsion may have multiple emulsion stabilisers.
- Preservatives – is avoided to prevent microbial growth in the product (which is possible because the product contains water). Also, preservatives for products that contain water are usually required by cosmetic law.
- Anti-oxidant – prevent the oil portion of the product from going rancid. The oil portion does not need a preservative.
- pH adjuster – ensure that the pH of the product remains within range to use on skin (see also idiot’s guide to using pH)
(1) When would you use an emulsion?
The emulsions in the image above include Kama Ayurveda’s body butter and FE’s velvet body cream. The introduction of water allows for a smoother experience, but this means there is less OIL in the product.
I use body lotions for most of the year because the texture is lighter and the skin more easily absorbs them. As our skin is hygroscopic, the water facilitates this.
In choosing a body lotion, the most critical factors for me are:
- Smell
- Price
- Ease of application
If you are a regular reader of this blog, you’ll know that fragrance is essential to my product purchasing decision. I am more offended by (e.g.) a product that smells like cow’s urine than a fragrance-free product.
Closing
True body butters are not readily available in the market. I think its because we are not used to the sensorial experience that is offered by just oil based products. However, body butters are extremely effective moisturisers during winter and you definitely need smaller quantities than a normal body lotion…A good place to start would be Juicy Chemistry’s Fig, Vanilla and Blood Orange Body Butter (INR 750 for 75g)
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