My view: Give it a miss.
This product is almost identical to VLCC Matte Look Depigmentation gel SPF 30, which I have reviewed. You can read this blog as background to this post.
Has anything changed from SPF 30 to SPF 40?
The UV filters are identical, except the order has changed as follows.
This makes sense, because the SPF 40 requires more UVB filters – so more Octinoxate is present in this product.
Is the change in filters NOT sufficient to make this product a “BUY?”
No. The primary UVA filter is Avobenzone and it is without doubt a gold standard UVA filter – but NOT:
- When its present in insufficient quantities – come on VLCC – its now the 9th listed ingredient??
- When the photostability of Avobenzone is in question…..
Avobenzone is notoriously photounstable. But its stabilised here by (what I assume) is Benzophenone-3 (the label says “Benzophenone”). That works. Except the product also has Octinoxate and Titanium Dioxide. Both make Avobenzone photounstable and they are both present in greater quantities then Avobenzone.
This makes UVA protection borderline useless. Also, combining Avobenzone with Octinoxate makes Octinoxate unstable too…. Why is VLCC asking us to waste our money??
Click on LINK for more information.
In fact, this very instability is why you don’t see American sunscreens – which use Avobenzone a lot – contain Octinoxate or Titanium Dioxide.
Closing remarks
This is a sunscreen formulation that does not get the textbook stuff correct. You don’t need to use it.
Drop me a line if you have any queries at email@happyskindays.com
P.S. see also: Top 5 sunscreen recommendations, Do You Understand The Gibberish On Sunscreen Labels? Myths About Sun-Protection
P.P.S. Quick nerd edit: The problem with the harmful chemical, Oxybenzone
The label reads “Benzophenone” which I assume from all the other VLCC formulations is Benzophenone-3. All VLCC sunscreen products have almost identical ingredient lists and it beggars belief that this is not Benzophenone-3.
Oxybenzone (or Benzophenone-3) is a broad band UV filter that absorbs both UVB and UVA.
The health concerns around this chemical are:
1. Endocrine disruptors: Oxybenzone has been found in the urine samples of 90%+ Americans (men and women, with a higher concentration in women (likely to be because women use higher levels of personal care products). Its also been found in the breast milk of lactating women and high levels of oxybenzone have been associated with girls with LOWER weights at birth and boys with larger heads: in all likelihood, Oxybenzone causes endocrine disruption.
2. Skin allergen: If Oxybenzone is absorbed so readily in the skin, it shouldn’t come as a surprise to anyone that Oxybenzone is also an allergen for people with pre-existing skin conditions.
See also Chemicals To Avoid – Benzophenone-3
Sources and uses:
US20170326062A1 (US Patent application pending),
US9956163B2 (Having previously been published, pre-grant publication);
Ceresole, R., Y.K. Han, M.A. Rosasco, et al., “Drug-Excipient Compatibility Studies in Binary Mixtures of Avobenzone,” Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 64(5), pp. 317-328, 2013. ;
Nash, J.F., and P.R. Tanner, “Relevance of UV Filter/Sunscreen Product Photostability to Human Safety,” Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine, vol. 30(2-3), pp. 88-95, 2014 ;
Wendy E Roberts, Lily I Jiang, and James H Herndon, Jr, “Facial primer provides immediate and long-term improvements in mild-to-moderate facial hyperpigmentation and fine lines associated with photoaging” Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015; 8: 471–477.