ALPHA-H Daily Essential Moisturiser SPF 50 ( 50ml )

My view: Give it a miss

Even before asking whether or not this is a good sunscreen, I ask myself these questions.

  1. Does this contain harmful chemicals?
  2. Is the SPF 30 and above?

The harmful chemicals I look for include parabens and Oxybenzone. This formulation contains both.

If you read my blog, you’ll know I am unforgiving of formulations that contain parabens. There are better alternatives.

Other manufacturer’s manage without parabens, so why can’t ALPHA-H?

Oxybenzone is a known-endocrine disruptor, as its a likely estrogen mimicker.

That’s all I have to say on this product. But if you want to know if its an effective sunscreen, then keep reading.

Still interested? Let’s talk about filters

Sunscreens contain “Filters” that protect against damage caused by UV radiation. 

Source: Krutmann J, Bouloc A, Sore G, Bernard B, Passerson T, The skin aging exposome, Journal of Dermatological Science 85 (2017) 152-161

UVA rays penetrate our skin deeper and cause breakdown of collagen in our skin. Collagen is what gives skin its structure and resilience. 

Therefore, UVA causes longer-term structural damage to our skin.  

UVA filters protect against the damage caused by UVA radiation, which in a nutshell is photo-damage (wrinkles, hyper-pigmentation and loss of skin elasticity).

 UVB filters protect mainly against UVB radiation, namely reddening of the skin (erythema), sunburn and skin-cancer. UVB also causes photo-damage, but nothing like UVA.

UVB/UVA filters combine the function of UVA and UVB filters.

Filters

These are the filters present in this product:

  • UVA filters: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (common name is Avobenzone).
  • UVB filters:
    • Homosalate.
    • Ethylhexyl Salicylate (common name is Octisalate).
    • Octocrylene.
  • UVA/UVB filters
    • Benzophenone-3 (also Oxybenzone).

Does this product provide sufficient UVB protection?

Yes. It has an SPF of 50, which is a measure of UVB protection. There is sufficient quantity of UVB filters in this product, as the UVB filters listed above are in the first 7 ingredients.

Does this product contain sufficient UVA protection?

The only UVA filter is Avobenzone. This is an excellent filter, but its photounstable.

Avobenzone’s effectiveness can reduce by 50%-90% within one hour if its not combined with a photostabiliser.

This product contains a photostabiliser, Octocrylene and so Avobenzone is present as a photostable filter.

Finally, Oxybenzone, a broadspectrum filter providing protection against UVB and UVA2 is present.

This product does provide effective protection against UVA.

What’s the problem with parabens?

This product contains Methylparaben and Propylparaben

Parabens are cheap and effective preservatives that are endocrine system disruptors, as they are estrogen mimickers. The paraben problem is made worse because they are so readily absorbed into your skin. If parabens are present in (e.g., toner, face wash, face cream, sunscreen) and you reapply these products, then you’re absorbing more parabens.

For the above reason, you should avoid paraben containing products.

See also Chemicals to Avoid – Parabens

What’s the problem with Oxybenzone?

The health concerns are:

1. Endocrine disruptors: Oxybenzone has been found in the urine samples of 90%+ Americans, with a higher concentration in women. Women use higher levels of personal care products.  

Its also found in breast milk of lactating women. And high levels of oxybenzone have been linked to girls with LOWER weights at birth and boys with larger heads.

Therefore, Oxybenzone likely causes endocrine disruption.

2. Skin allergen: As Oxybenzone is readily absorbed in the skin, its also an allergen for people with pre-existing skin conditions.

See also Chemicals To Avoid – Benzophenone-3

Sources: FDA press release. Ceresole, R., Y.K. Han, M.A. Rosasco, et al., “Drug-Excipient Compatibility Studies in Binary Mixtures of Avobenzone,” Journal of Cosmetic Science, vol. 64(5), pp. 317-328, 2013.  Nash, J.F., and P.R. Tanner, “Relevance of UV Filter/Sunscreen Product Photostability to Human Safety,” Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine, vol. 30(2-3), pp. 88-95, 2014.
Ingredients: Aqua. Homosalate. Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Cera
Alba, Benzophenone-3, Paraffinum Liquidum, Silica, Isopropyl Myristate, Octocrylene,
PEG-15 Cocamine, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Stearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Tocopherol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
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Happy Skin Days ©  2021.  © Angeli Sinha 2021. All rights reserved. The contents of this blog, including images are protected by copyright law.  My content cannot be replicated without my consent. You can write to me at email@happyskindays.com

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