So that we are on the same page, I mean “double cleanse” to basically mean using a cleanser twice. This may or may not entail a rigorous facial massage.
E.g., you could use an oily make-up remover followed by a face wash.
Or a facial massage with (e.g.) an oil or balm, then using a muslin cloth to remove it, followed by a micellar water or a face wash is another example.
Going back to the original question: do you need to double cleanse if you use a sunscreen ONLY?
SHORT ANSWER: Based on my own experience, I would say absolutely not. My sunscreen staple, Ultrasun is removed with an ordinary facewash. (Most facewashes and micellar waters contain ingredients called surfactants, that are responsible for removing “the lipid” or “oily” ingredients of your sunscreen. Anything that is water soluble is similarly removed by water).
LONG ANSWER: it depends.
Let me first remind you how a facial cleanser works and the issues created by excessive cleansing. The cleaning action of a cleanser comes from a chemical compound called a surfactant. Using a facial cleanser, essentially involves the surfactant micelles adhering to the oil/liquid interface, rolling-up the oil, which is then washed away with water…
Excessive washing or using a harsh cleanser
The surfactants damage both the lipids in the skin as well as protein. The surfactant micelles have an affinity for oil and therefore it can take away not only excess sebum but also lipids in the lipid matrix. Strongly alkaline surfactants can denature protein, thereby making the skin barrier more permeable and surfactants can go through the layers of the skin.
Essentially, repeated use of strong face washes and/or excessive face washing will cause: an impaired skin barrier. This is characterised by:
1) After-wash tightness
2) Skin dryness, scaling and roughness
3) Skin irritation, redness and itching.
You can read more at this blog How does a cleanser work?
***
Going back to our original query: double cleansing and sunscreen….
Enter the Knights of Ren (mineral sunscreen)
Recently, I was using prevage’s sunscreen shield, which is a combination of Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide filters. I found a mild Rose & Jasmine facial cleanser to be perfectly fine to remove this sunscreen.
Currently, I am using Ren’s mineral sunscreen which is a 22% non-nano Zinc Oxide sunscreen. It is in fact perfect for a lockdown. I do still want to wear sunscreen (because of the UVA levels in the atmosphere) and I am fine with this sunscreen being an SPF 30.
The problem with Zinc Oxide at such a high percentage is that just sits on your skin like some type of whitewash or immovable glue.
For the first three days, I was using my normal face wash and kept wondering why skin did not feel “clean” and felt heavy.
On the fourth day, I was literally scrapping sunscreen that had stuck to my face with my finger nails.
I know gross. Thankfully, I didn’t break out but this is the semi-perfect recipe for doing so (Zinc Oxide is non-comedogenic).
Solution?
I use a cleansing balm and a soft cotton napkin to remove the sunscreen followed by a facewash.
So, yes, I do have to double cleanse – and I really don’t like this, but I think its much better than using a strong facewash twice.
But to answer my original question, with some sunscreens you absolutely should be double-cleansing.
Thankfully, these sunscreens are few and far between and so far, I have encountered this with a mineral sunscreen.
Which product have I recently found that removes mineral sunscreen?
Recently, I discovered Glow Recipe’s cleansing balm which completely removed Bioderma’s stubborn mineral sunscreen.
I would stress two things:
- it is not uncommon for such cleansing balms to clog pores (if it did for me)
- do not make the rookie mistake of forgetting to wash your face with a proper face wash. (Ok, so I may have done that)..
HAPPY SKIN DAYS. COPYRIGHT RESERVED 2021. I am a non-affiliated skincare blogger. I invest my own resources in researching and creating content for my blog. The contents of this blog, including images are protected by copyright law(s). My content cannot be replicated without my consent. You can write to me at email@happyskindays.com. I will file criminal and civil charges for copyright infringement.