What is so interesting about this product?
The formulation is near identical to L’Oreal Paris’ Aqua Essence SPF 50 PA++++. Don’t believe me? Here are the ingredient lists:
Ingredient list of L’Oreal Paris UV Perfect Super Aqua Essence SPF 50+ PA++++
Ingredient list of Kiehl’s Ultra Light Daily UV Defense Aqua Gel SPF 50 PA++++
The quantities of the filters appear to be different because (e.g.) Ethylhexyl Triazone appears as the 5th ingredient in Kiehl’s product but only the 2nd ingredient in L’Oreal. BUT, this does not mean the actual quantities of the filters are different (especially as the SPF and PA rating is the same).
It could be that the Weight of Kiehl’s first 4 ingredients is equal to the Weight of L’Oreal’s first ingredient.
Why are the products so similar but priced so differently?
It’s very likely that Kiehl’s is licensing the formulation from L’Oreal Paris. As an American brand, it makes more commercial sense to buy a formula that it can sell outside the USA*. Kiehls can then charge whatever it wants. And let’s be very clear, Kiehl’s is charging INR 3,000 for 30ml and L’Oreal Paris are charging INR 515 for 30ml**.
That is six times more.
(Note* This formula cannot be sold in the US, as most of the filters are not permitted in the USA. ** Prices are from Nykaa and are accurate as at 30 April 2020 and will not be updated)
Should you buy the product?
I cannot tell you that. But I can tell you that the L’Oreal alternative works just as well….
For completeness, I’ve included a sunscreen test and review of the product below.
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Sunscreen test
What damages should sunscreen be trying to prevent?
Sunscreens should contain both UVA and UVB filters that protect against the following damages:
Filters the product has:
- Ethylhexyl Triazone (5th ingredient)
- Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (“BEMT“) (7th ingredient)
- Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (“DHHB“) (8th ingredient)
- Titanium Dioxide (9th ingredient)
- Drometrizole Trisiloxane (“Mexoryl XL“) (12th ingredient)
It is very likely that because this product is nearly identical to the L’Oreal Aqua Gel formula, that it contains sufficient quantities of these filters to justify its high SPF and PA rating.
If I didn’t know about the L’Oreal formula, I would argue that the product still contains sufficient filters to justify its high SPF and that at best it is a PA+++ product, offering very high protection against UVA radiation. (see What is PA++++ for more details)
High SPF comes from UVB filter and broadspectrum filters…
The high SPF comes from Ethylhexyl Triazone. This is a very photostable UVB filter that does not need to be present in large quantities to be effective. It has a large molecular weight (823 Daltons) meaning it won’t be absorbed by the skin.
The SPF rating is supported by all other filters (which are broadspectrum) but not Mexoryl XL, which is a UVA filter.
Broadspectrum, photostable and efficient filters
i) BEMT
BEMT is the 3rd ingredient on the list, indicating a lot of it is in the product. BEMT is an excellent broadspectrum filter and has the following characteristics. as:
- BEMT provides superior UVB as well as UVA protection. The UVAI protection it offers begins to taper off at about 360nm, indicating it provides inferior protection to Avobenzone. Nevertheless, it’s still an excellent UVA filter.
- The filter is very photostable, so does not immediately start to breakdown as soon as the product comes out of the tube
- BEMT has a large molecular weight (629 Dalton) meaning it won’t be absorbed into the skin.
- Finally, it does not have to be present in large quantities to give significant UVA protection. Even 1.7% BEMT without any other ingredients, provides PA++ rating, which is much more than the PA protection offered by many Indian sunscreens.
ii) Drometrizole Trisiloxane
Mexoryl XL is a L’Oreal patent filter. It provides pretty excellent coverage over the entire UVB region and UVA II region and it peaks at about 350nm and then begins to taper off in absorbance post 350nm. Finally, it is very photostable.
UVA protection and the high PA++++ rating
The only UVA filter is DHHB.
- It is a superior, photostable UVA filter.
- Like BEMT, DHHB is a new style filter that does not need to be present in high percentage quantities to give effective protection. Even 1.5% DHHB gives PA++ rating, assuming no other filters are present. It provides superior UVAII / UVA I protection, peaking between 350nm-360nm.
See also: