For 1st time readers, I’m analysing the #sunscreen formulations on #Sephora, USA. I am at no 12 on this list and I’m supergooped out, so I’m jumping to No 19 – Kiehl’s Better ScreenTM UV Serum SPF 50+ Facial Sunscreen with Collagen Peptide. (Out of the top 10 bestsellers, 5 sunscreens are made by #supergoop!)
About Kiehl’s..
This sunscreen is brand new – and given that Kiehl’s has an absolute stronghold on the segments it caters to, its incentive to innovate and design new products is zero. Some of my clients use sunscreen and its just not them – its the grandparents, kids, pets, nanny – all of them. So, when Kiehl’s come out with something – I get excited. (I may need to #getalife, but that is another story).
What’s new?
- This is a serum – the emulsification system by necessity is different b/c the product needs to be quick-absorbing AND give great skin feel
- There is not a single SILICA, SILICONE, DIMETHICONE or any type of -CONE insight. SO how does this ingredient improve the sensory experience for consumers?
Ingredient list
A quick look at the ingredient list shows you that the product has no silicones or dimethicones, which is absolutely the opposite approach to supergoop! and Shiseido.
But the focus on skin feel must come from somewhere, and that’s when this formulation starts to get interesting. The formula uses what I call “compound ingredients”, and these together provide a better skin feel.
Type of product
This product says its a serum, but its a light-weight emulsion masquerading as a serum. I’ll be honest, I’m struggling to see the preservative system immediately…
1) This product uses 1 emulsifier. The presence of Sunflower Seed Wax and Jojoba Esters is an indication that Emulium®, Dolcea MB, is the emulsifier. This emulsifier is an oil-in-water emulsifier, and it’s a high-performance emulsifier in terms of delivering a soft finish to emulsions. Its INCI is Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Water (and) Polyglycerin-3.
2) Main Emollient is C15-19 Alkane, and it’s highly unusual to see one type of emollient in a sunscreen.
3) Rheology modifiers/thickeners are C12-22 ALKYL ACRYLATE/HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER and SCLEROTIUM GUM
4) Preservative system – I am not at all sure what this is…the product contains Sensicare FP 2, which is a multi-functional ingredient and could be the preservative… Its INCI name is(Propanediol (and) Hydroxyacetophenone (and) Caprylyl Glycol)
5) As soon as I saw the words “collagen peptide,” I thought Matrixyl 3000, which is present in this product. There are licensing restrictions around using Matrixyl 3000, and honestly if you are Kiehl’s do you need more customers?! Matrixyl 3000 has INCI name CARBOMER, POLYSORBATE 20, POLYGLYCERIN-3, PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-1, PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-7.