This product advertises itself as a “Japanese Sakura Skin Whitening creme.” The temptation is to believe that a singular Japanese sourced ingredient, Sakura is responsible for skin lightening. This is not the case and Lotus have created a very standard Indian fairness cream.
I will be applying this test
There are no harmful chemicals present.
Q2) Skin lightening ingredients present?
Yes. I have identified the following from the label:
- Niacinamide (2nd listed ingredient)
- Sakura extract (8th from the bottom of the list)
- Saxifraga fermentosa (creeping strawberry) (5th from the end of the listed ingredients)
- Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Vitamin E is listed as the 5th ingredient from the end – this suggests its anti-oxidant activity is limited to preventing ingredients from oxidizing!
Sakura extract is a tyrosinase inhibitor and does promote skin lightening. I haven’t been able to find anything on the creeping strawberry (yet).
However, let there be no doubt that if the 2nd ingredient on the label is Niacinamide, then this is the ingredient responsible for skin lightening. The Sakura extract and creeping strawberry are at best performing a very limited supporting role.
Niacinamide is an excellent skincare ingredient. It has a long track record of safety, is non-irritating, and importantly, does not interfere directly with the synthesis of melanin.
Melanin is the pigment that is primarily responsible for our skin colour (see also What gives our skin its colour?) Instead, Niacinamide reduces the amount of melanin being transferred to the epidermis (the topmost layer of our skin). By default, this means lighter skin.
Q3) What’s the product’s strategy for skin lighteing?
The product achieves skin lightening on two levels. First, by the effect of Niacinamide (see above) and by having sunscreen filters.
Sunscreen filters
One of the immediate body responses to over-exposure to UV radiation is that our body produces more melanin. More melanin results in tanning and darkening of skin complexion. The purpose of the sunscreen ingredients is to prevent this cascade of events caused by UVR exposure.
This day cream aims to do this by having sunscreen filters:
- Titanium Dioxide
- Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
I am not sure how effective these filters are and that’s OK. You should always use a separate sunscreen with at least SPF 30 when using a whitening product.
Would I buy this product again?
Sure. There is no reason not to.
I would stress that after about 4 weeks, you may not see any difference in your complexion, despite continuous use of this product.
This would be consistent with studies that show the impact of Niacinamide in topical treatments plateaus after 4 weeks. This is by no means unique to only Niacinamide, but also applies to other skin lighteners (e.g.) retinoids.
For further information, please see Niacinamide as a skin lightener.
If you do plan use to use this product, please absolutely use a separate sunscreen product with at least an SPF 30 and that protects your skin against both UVA and UVB.
See also Top 5 sunscreen recommendations
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