What am I testing?
In our age of waterproof everything (mascara, eyeliner etc) coupled with make-up setting spray, the humble make-up remover does have its work cut out.
However, the job of an oil-free make up remover is much harder: it does not have any of the oil-based solvents that dissolve the dirt and grime of make-up. The theory behind an oil-free make-up remover is that it is designed for individuals with acne prone skin.
We are here to find out if they can or do work….
It’s important that you note that this is not a micellar water or a facial cleanser. Therefore, you must wash your face, ideally with a cleanser, after you’ve used it.
(You can read about the technical detail on how micellar water or facial cleansers work at this BLOG).
Before photo
After applying a plethora of waterpoof, pigmented, matte and shiny and mainly black make-up, my forearm looked like this:
(Products used are: Kay Beauty eyeliner/eyeshadow, Tom Ford under eye concealer, Tom Ford Emotion Proof eyeshadow, Maybelline colossal kajal, Givenchy waterproof mascara, Pat McGrath eyeshadow, Bobbi Brown black eyeliner (the one from the pot) and Jane Iredale eyeshadow).
I then pressed down a pre-soaked (in the make-up remover) cotton pad on the above patch and counted to 5. Finally, I wiped over this area (quite firmly) exactly 4 times.
This formula did not feel oily at all and in fact, had a consistency and feel similar to a micellar water…
After photo
The photo speaks for itself. About 25% of everything remains intact and at least 40% make-up has not been swept away.
Would I buy this again?
In this LINK, I’ve tested and reviewed No 7’s normal eye make up remover. I was suitably enamoured by the results. This product does not live up to the high bar set by the normal make-up remover.
I would never buy this again.
How about if I have acne prone skin?
The key to maintaining acne prone skin is to keep your skin free of excessive sebum – and a balance needs to be found between washing your face frequently and too much. If you use this make up remover, my concern is that a lot of residue is left AND then you use too much facial cleanser to get rid of it. This causes dryness in your skin and your skin responds by releasing extra lipids – so sebum goes up causing clogging and acne. This is a viciously simple version of a complicated problem (sorry!) but all I know for certain, is this not the right product for anyone, acne or no-acne.
P.S. The ingredients and formulation
To remind you, I’m actually a student as much as anyone is, and this is what I think the role of different ingredients in the formula are. I maybe wrong and please feel free to point out my errors in the comment section or by writing to me. Thank you.
Solvent: Buytlene Glycol – there is only one main solvent that’s dissolving the oil, grime etc…and probably explains why the product is useless at removing make-up
AHA: Citric Acid, which is a mild exfoliating agent
Moisturising agent: Glycerin a humectant) and is more moisturising. Glycerin works by drawing water from the deeper epidermis and dermis allowing the skin to feel smoother (source: Draelos)
Emulsifier: Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, which I think is here as an emulsifier – so ensures emulsion stability.
Anti-oxidants: Ascorbyl glucoside, Panax ginseng extract and Tocopheryl Acetate. The latter maybe present to prevent some of the ingredients within the formulation from oxidizing.
Preservatives: Sodium Benzoate and Phenoxyethanol
Chelating agent: Essentially neutralize metal ions (e.g. Na+) ensuring the longevity of the product; and also adjust pH of product. These are Sodium Citrate, Potassium Hydroxide and Tetrasodium Hydroxide in this product
SourceL Draelos ZD, The science behind skin care: Moisturizers. J. Cosmet Dermatol. 2018; 17:138-144