My view: Give it a miss
Is this product a sunscreen?
Lotus Herbals wants you to think this is not a sunscreen – it uses the dubious sounding “UV Screen” to describe its SPF 50 offering.
Any cosmetic whose second (and therefore most abundant) ingredient is a UV filter – as it is here – is a sunscreen.
The second ingredient on this product is a UVB filter called Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid or commonly, as Ensulizole.
Applying the sunscreen test
This product very clearly fails the sunscreen test for the same reasons that other Lotus Herbals fail (see these blogs SPF 20, SPF 30, SPF 40). Given the repetitive nature of these products, I only to highlight the UVA and UVB filter section
UVA and UVB filter present
Ensulizole is the 2nd ingredient on this product. It is an old-school UVB filter that is water-soluble and is commonly found in gel formulations, to make sunscreens feel lighter and less oily.
Ensulizole is a very strong UVB absorber with an absorption maximum of 302nm. As UVB radiation wavelength is 290nm to 320nm, by necessity this means:
- this product only protects against reddening of the skin (erythema), sunburn and skin-cancer. That is, damage from over-exposure to UVB radiation
- the “PA+++” rating on this product, suggests that it provides protection against UVA radiation. This is plain wrong.
I have run simulations and even at the maximum permitted by law – 8% Ensulizole, there is no way this product provides PA+++ level of protection. This is not possible.
Why are UVA filters so important?
Sun burn (or inflammation of the skin) resulting from reddening of the skin (erythema) is mainly caused by UVB. UVB is also mainly responsible for skin cancer.
We now know, that UVA also contributes to risk of skin cancer, but UVA is also mainly responsible for premature ageing (or photoaging), through generation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), which essentially causes the breakdown of collagen in our skin. Collagen is what gives skin its structure and resilience. Premature ageing is characterised by hyperpigmentation, wrinkle and loss of skin elasticity and so on.
UVA filters protect against the above risks.
Concluding remarks
The lack of Indian regulation on sunscreens allows Lotus Herbals to put labels and make assertions that I find extremely difficult to believe. You and I need to be vigilant against such labelling.
I am not a fan of this product. Please drop me a line at email@happyskindays.com and I’d be happy to suggest other products or see blogs below.
See also: Top 5 sunscreen recommendations, Do You Understand The Gibberish On Sunscreen Labels?